Florence & Tuscany - Italy - page 1011

WORTH A TRIP
FIESOLE DAY TRIPPER

Over the centuries, the cooler air, olive groves, Renaissance-styled villas and spectacular views from
this hilltop village 9km northeast of Florence have seduced visitors including Boccaccio, Marcel
Proust, Gertrude Stein and Frank Lloyd Wright.

Morning
Hop aboard a bus from Florence's Piazza San Marco and alight 30 minutes later on Fiesole's central
square, Piazza Mino di Fiesole. Founded in the 7th century BC by the Etruscans, Fiesole was the most
important city in northern Etruria and its Area Archeologica ( www.museidifiesole.it ; Via Portigiani
1; adult/reduced Fri-Sun €10/6, Mon-Thu €8/4, family €20; 10am-7pm summer, shorter hrs rest of
yr) a couple of doors down from the tourist office ( 055 596 13 23, 055 596 13 11;
www.fiesoleforyou.it ; Via Portigiani 3, Fiesole; 10am-6.30pm summer, shorter hrs rest of yr)
provides the perfect flashback to its fabulous past. Meander around the ruins of a small Etruscan
temple, Roman baths and an archaeological museum with exhibits from the Bronze Age to the Roman
period. Later, take a break on one of the stone steps of the 1st-century-BC Roman amphitheatre where
musicians, actors and artists take to the stage in summer during Italy's oldest open-air festival, Estate
Fiesolana ( www.estatefiesolana.it ) . July's Vivere Jazz Festival ( www.viverejazz.it ) is the other hot
date at this atmospheric theatre.
Afterwards, pop into the neighbouring Museo Bandini ( www.museidifiesole.it ; Via Dupré; adult/
reduced €5/3 or free with Area Archeologica ticket; 10am-7pm summer, shorter hrs rest of yr) to
view early Tuscan Renaissance art, including fine medallions (c 1505-20) by Giovanni della Robbia
and Taddeo Gaddi's luminous Annunciation (1340-45).
From the museum, a 300m walk along Via Giovanni Dupré brings you to the Fondazione Primo
Conti ( 055 59 70 95; www.fondazioneprimoconti.org ; Via Giovanni Dupré 18; admission €3,
with archives €5; 9am-2pm Mon-Fri) where the eponymous avant-garde 20th-century artist lived
and worked. Inside hang more than 60 of his paintings, and the views from the garden are inspiring.
Ring to enter.

Lunch
Meander back to Piazza Mino Fiesole, where cafe and restaurant terraces tempt on all sides. It also
hosts an antiques market the first Sunday of each month. The pagoda-covered terrace of four-star
hotel-restaurant Villa Aurora ( 055 5 93 63; www.villaurora.net ; Piazza Mino Fiesole 39; meals
€50; lunch & dinner, closed Mon winter) , around since 1860, is the classic choice, not so much
for the gourmet cuisine but for the spectacular panoramic view of Florence it cooks up. For a wholly
rustic and typical Tuscan lunch built around locally produced salami and cheese, homemade pasta and
Chianina T-bones eaten at a shared table, enoteca -cum-bistro Vinandro ( 055 5 91 21;

www.vinandrofiesole.com ; Piazza Mino da Fiesole 33; meals €20; lunch & dinner summer) is the

best choice.