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art. It cooks up Garga classics including tagliatelle de magnifico (pasta ribbons with mint
and citrus zest in a creamy brandy sauce), the signature dish of Alessandro's father, Giuli-
ano 'Garga' Gargani. Reservations are essential at weekends.
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5 Santa Croce
Mercato di Sant'Ambrogio
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MARKET
7am-2pm Mon-Sat) Outdoor food market with an intimate, local flavour.
(Piazza Ghiberti;
Il Giova
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TRATTORIA
( 055 248 06 39; www.ilgiova.com ; Borgo La Croce 73r; meals €25; lunch & dinner Mon-Sat)
Pocket-sized and packed, this cheery trattoria is everything a traditional Florentine eating
place should be. Dig into century-old dishes including zuppa della nonna (grandma's
soup), risotto del giorno (risotto of the day) or mafalde al ragù ( long-ribboned pasta with
meat sauce) and pride yourself on finding a place to dine with locals.
Brac
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VEGETARIAN
( 055 094 48 77; www.libreriabrac.net ; Via dei Vagellai 18r; meals €20; noon-midnight, closed 2
wks mid-Aug; ) This hipster cafe-bookshop - a hybrid dining-stroke- aperitivi address -
cooks up inventive, home-style and strictly vegetarian and vegan cuisine. Its decor is re-
cycled vintage and the vibe is artsy. Reserve in advance at weekends. It can be tricky to
find - there is no sign outside, just an inconspicuous doorway a block back from the river
with a jumble of books in the window.
Il Teatro del Sale
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TUSCAN €€
( 055 200 14 92; www.teatrodelsale.com ; Via dei Macci 111r; breakfast/lunch/dinner €7/20/30;
9-11am, 12.30-2.15pm & 7-11pm Tue-Sat, closed Aug) Florentine chef Fabio Picchi is one of
Florence's living treasures, and he steals the Sant'Ambrogio show with this eccentric,
good-value members-only club (everyone welcome, annual membership €7) inside an old
 
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