Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
iners went ashore they had to contend with groups of spear-bran-
dishing warriors.
However, they eventually reached the south end of Nicobar
safely, replenished their provisions and, by 15 May, when the south-
west monsoon began, they were ready for the perilous crossing.
They had food and water for two or three days, some very rough
sketch charts and a pocket compass. If they erred a few points to the
north or south they would be carried into the wide western end of
the Straits of Malacca or into the emptiness of the Indian Ocean. In
either event, they would all be dead long before they reached land.
Dampier was doing the navigating; constantly estimating the effects
of wind and current. He knew he could not afford a mistake.
For the first two days there was little or no breeze to fill the sail.
To make progress the little crew had to paddle continuously, tak-
ing their turns to work under the equatorial sun. The strain was in-
tense. They were soon tired but dared not stop rowing. They were
thirsty but had to ration their water strictly. At dawn on 17 May they
saw land to the west-north-west. It was Nicobar, which they had left
almost forty-eight muscle-tearing hours before. Their canoe, like a
piece of helpless flotsam, had been carried westwards by a strong
contrary current, despite all their endeavours. But the next day the
perils of too little wind were replaced by the perils of too much.
Soon after noon it built up to storm force, accompanied by rain,
thunder and lightning. Dampier reduced sail but even under light
canvas every gust thrust the canoe's bow deep into the waves and
threatened to snap her outriggers. There was nothing to be done but
take in the sail and let the boat run before the wind, even though this
carried them too far to the north. The men were cold, wet, hungry,
thirsty and exhausted. To make matters worse some of them were
suffering from dysentery. Self-preservation alone kept them work-
ing. Dampier and another Englishman took turns at the helm. Every-
one else was constantly baling. The canoe was remarkably buoyant
