Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Plateia Exarhion
Plateia Exarhion is the epicentre of neighbourhood life. Pick a spot on the square for
prime people-watching. Locals choose modern cafe-bookshop Floral (Themistokleous 80,
Exarhia; ; Omonia) , with grey-toned images of retro life and, you guessed it,
flowers on the walls. Folks buy books, use the wi-fi, chat and watch the world go by.
It's a good place to start the day or evening before exploring.
Graffiti A-Go-Go
The walls, alleys and stairways of Exarhia are adorned with, possibly, some of the
world's most creative graffiti. Often with a pointed underlying political message,
these elaborate works are an inspiration to behold. Start at the Strefi Hill end of
Themistokleous and simply wander the neighbourhood, looking for the latest expres-
sions of both fancy and ire.
Reclaimed Square
The inhabitants of Exarhia took back an entire city block, turning it into a completely
locally planted and maintained urban park. See the reclaimed square bordered by
Didetou, Harilaou Trikoupi, Navarinou and Zoodohou Pigis - a real work in pro-
gress.
Old-World Taverna
Lunch at Exarhia institution Barbagiannis ( 210 330 0185; Emmanuel Benaki 94, Exarhia;
mains €5-7; lunch & dinner Mon-Sat, to 7pm Sun; Omonia) , an extremely low-key mayirio
(cook house) on a quiet corner. Choose from the variety of big trays of traditional
dishes behind the counter, such as pastitsio (layers of baked macaroni and minced
meat), washed down with house wine.
Boho Lunch
Or slip over to Kimatothrafstis (
213 030 8274; Harilaou Trikoupi 49, Exarhia; small/large plate
Omonia) , a great-value, bright and casual mod-
€3.80/6.80;
8am-11pm, closed dinner Sun;
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