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style female-only rooms as well as four-bed and eight-bed mixed dorms. All are basic but
spotless. The rate includes pick-ups, breakfast and scooter rental. To top it off there's a
small swimming beach 50m down the road.
Niulan Homestay HOMESTAY $
(Niú lán Mínsù; 215-898; http://tour.matsu.idv.tw/hotel_niulan.php ; 124 Fuxing Village, 124; s/d
NT$800/1000; ) Niulan has seven rooms, three of which are wood-plank rooms in
an artsy traditional village house while four newer ones are in a concrete building next
door. The alfresco terrace boasts good views of the village and the coast. It's just a five-
minute walk (downhill) from Matsu Distillery.
Listen Sea Homestay HOMESTAY $$$
(Tīnghǎi Mínsù; 23003; http://tour.matsu.idv.tw/hotel_listensea.php ; 32 Jinsha Village, 32; d
from NT$1200; ) The dull, grey stone exterior of this former village home may not
look inviting, but the wooden interior structure is well preserved and the four double
rooms are airy and comfortable. The sunny terrace out the front demands lazy afternoons
spent enjoying coffee.
Coast Hotel BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$
$$$
(Rìguāng Hǎiàn Hǎijǐng Lǚguǎn; 26666; www.coasthotel.com.tw ; Renai Village, s/d/ste incl
breakfast NT$3200/3500/4200; ) This small boutique hotel boasts a Japanese minim-
alist design, sweeping ocean views, and an excellent restaurant and coffee shop serving
both Western and Asian dishes.
Eating
There are a number of Taiwan-style restaurants along the main streets in the villages of
Jieshou, Matsu and Fu'ao. The morning market in Jieshou (Jièshòu Shīzǐ Shìchǎng) is a
good place for a traditional breakfast including fish noodles, oyster pancakes and a vari-
ety of cakes.
Furen Cafe CAFE $
(Fūrén Kāfēiguǎn; www.furen.com.tw ; 40-1 Furen Village; dishes NT$150; 10am-10pm) This cafe
cum hostel serves excellent coffee and simple dishes on the stone patio overlooking the
sea.
Leemo's Shop SEAFOOD $$$
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