Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Matsu is replete with forts, tunnels and sights connected with the islands' important
position in the struggles between communist and Chinese Nationalist forces. Authorities
claim the islands have the highest concentration of tunnels and warrens in the world.
Some of these sites are now open for tourism; expect more in the coming years.
Temples in Matsu are largely uninspiring modern restorations, interesting more for
their histories than anything else. Some, however, do sport striking-looking high gable
ends that jut up like waves on the ocean, or licking flames. In fact, the roofs are called
fire walls, and you'll not find them anywhere else in Taiwan.
Not surprisingly, numerous Matsu temples can be found on Matsu's islands. Many fea-
ture statues of the goddess as a sweet-faced young woman, which is something found
only in this part of Taiwan as her likenesses elsewhere in the country are invariably dark-
faced.
Most sights and activities on the islands are free.
Iron Fort
MILITARY SITE
(Tiě Bǎo)
One of the most impressive military sites is the abandoned Iron Fort, a rocky
strip of coral jutting out over the sea and hollowed out to house Matsu's amphibious
forces. Visitors are allowed to enter and have a look at the spartan living quarters of the
soldiers who once lived there.
Be sure to look out over the ocean through sniper slots. Gruesome stories are told by
Matsu residents of how Mainland frogmen would sneak inside the fort at night, slit the
throats of the Taiwanese guards on duty and carry back an ear to show their comrades.
Beihai Tunnel
MILITARY SITE
(Běihǎi Kēngdào; 8am-5pm Mon-Fri)
Carved out of a sheer rock face by soldiers using
only simple hand tools, construction of this 700m tunnel began in 1968 and took three
years to complete, with many losing their lives in the process. It was used as a hiding
place for military boats and is supposedly large enough to hide 120 small vessels in case
of attack. Kayaks are available for rent (NT$350) to paddle through the slightly mazy
layout inside the tunnel.
Dahan Stronghold
MILITARY SITE
(Dàhàn Jùdiǎn)
Just across a rocky beach from the Beihai Tunnel is Dahan Stronghold, a
fortification built directly into a granite peninsula. A warren of narrow and low tunnels
leads visitors to emplacements where real 80mm anti-aircraft cannons and machine guns
peak out from caves overlooking the sea.
