Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
There are frequent ferries from Shuitou Harbour on the main island (NT$60, 20 minutes)
to Little Kinmen (7am to 9pm). From Little Kinmen to Shuitou Harbour, ferries operate
between 6.30am and 8.30pm.
THE AUGUST 23RD ARTILLERY WAR
In August 1955, Sino-US talks about the status of Taiwan had left China feeling bit-
ter and angry. The US insisted that Beijing renounce the use of force against
Taiwan. China retorted that Taiwan was Chinese territory and it had the right to lib-
erate it from Chiang Kai-shek. Dead centre in the dispute, Taiwan declared a state
of emergency and prepared for the full force of a Chinese attack.
That came on the morning of 23 August 1958, as Beijing launched a ferocious
bombardment on Kinmen. In just two hours the island was hit with over 42,000
shells. Alarmed, the US realised that if Kinmen fell, Taiwan would likely be next, so
it swiftly sent the Kuomintang (KMT) a shipment of jet fighters and anti-aircraft
missiles, plus six supporting aircraft carriers, in order to strengthen the island's de-
fence.
China created a tight blockade around Kinmen's beaches and airstrip in an effort
to prevent any military supplies from reaching the Nationalist military. In response,
the US sent several warships into the Taiwan Strait to escort a convoy of Taiwan
military supply ships. The convoy got within 5km of the blockade and was sur-
prised that the communists refused to fire.
Instead, Beijing offered Taiwan a very odd ceasefire - it would fire on Kinmen
only on odd-numbered days. On even-numbered days the island would be left
alone. The Chinese held to the ceasefire and continued to bomb Kinmen
throughout September and October on odd-numbered days. By November ten-
sions had eased and the bombing stopped. Tragically, almost 500,000 shells had
struck Kinmen, killing over 3000 civilians. More than 1000 soldiers were also killed
or wounded.
MATSU
0836 / POP 11,300
Look no further than this green archipelago of 18 islands right off the coast of mainland
China's Fujian province if you're seeking the off-the-beaten-path Taiwan. Like Kinmen,
Matsu (Matzu) retains much of its feel as a perpetual military outpost. The Matsu vibe is
a bit more martial, however, and half the people you run into here are in uniform. Be pre-
pared to scurry down narrow tunnels and, emerging to the clear light of day, enjoy a su-
perb ocean lookout with a real 80mm anti-aircraft cannon at your side.
