Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
TOP OF CHAPTER
Dongpu (Tungpu)
POP 500 / ELEV 1200M
Just over the northern tip of Yushan National Park sits the hot-spring village of Dongpu
(Dōngpǔ). The carbon-acid hot spring delivers high-quality, clear, odour-free water with
an average temperature of 50°C.
Dongpu's status as a gateway to Yushan National Park is threatened by severe
washouts on the trail up to the Batongguan meadows (a junction of trails that includes a
back route to Yushan Main Peak). Even before Typhoon Morakot hit in 2009, this section
was in such rough shape that Bunun porters were reluctant to take it.
There are plenty of hot-spring hotels in Dongpu. For an inexpensive option, try the
Youth Activity Centre
(Qīngnián Huódòng Zhōngxīn;
049-270 1515; r from NT$700)
at the
high end of town.
Yuanlin Bus Company
( 049-277 0041)
runs buses between Dongpu and Shuili
(NT$152, 80 minutes) approximately hourly between 6am and 5.40pm.
THE BUNUN BALLAD
On any hike in the western Taiwan mountains, you'll come across Bunun porters
and guides. Bunun were known not only as fierce warriors and headhunters in the
past, but also for their 'Pasibutbut', an untamed, mystical tribal voice that still sur-
vives today.
'Pasibutbut' is an improvised yet sophisticated polyphonic form of singing,
which consists of a harmonious octophonic chorus, usually with very little instru-
mental accompaniment or dance movement. A prayer for peace, health and good
harvest, this ancient style of singing permanently overturned old-school musicolo-
gists' idea that music originated in single note and progressed to two notes and so
on, when Japanese scholar Kurosawa Takatomo presented the recordings of the
music to Unesco in 1952.
Traditionally, only adult men are allowed to sing the songs, as women's singing is
considered a taboo and detrimental to the harvest. Also, the singing has to be con-
tinuous and without breaks; otherwise, it is believed, the health of fellow
tribespeople and the harvest will suffer.
'Pasibutbut' received international exposure when award-winning cellist David
Darling recorded the Bunun music in the mountains of Taiwan and released the al-
bumMadanin Katain 2004, followed by a tour in Britain with Bunun members.
