Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Though banned for years because of its connection with mobsterism, the festival
has been growing in popularity in recent years, and is now up there with the Matsu
Pilgrimage, the Yenshui Fireworks Festival, and the Pingxi's sky lantern release as
one of Taiwan's top folk events. Unfortunately it takes place at the same time as
the latter three, which means a hard choice must be made come Lantern Festival
time.
For a behind the scenes look at the festival, check out Ho Chao-ti'sThe Gang-
ster's God: A Film of the Taiwanese Underworld.
SOUTH CROSS-ISLAND HIGHWAY
In August 2009 Typhoon Morakot wiped out large sections of this old mountain high-
way, one of Taiwan's grandest. At the time of writing there was still no access on the
west side from Meishan to Yakou, though rumors persisted that eventually some kind of
road would reopen (though it's highly unlikely). We've included coverage up to Siangy-
ang Forest Recreation Area, but ask about road conditions before you head out as many
sections are still under repair. You need your own vehicle for this route.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Wulu
POP 100
The first real stop on the way up the highway, about 20km from Haituan, the tiny Bunun
village of Wulu (Wùlù) sits on a ledge over the wild S-shaped
Wulu Canyon
(
Wùlù
XiáGǔ
). As you ride through the area, watch for steamy fumaroles and hot-spring water
spitting out from cracks in the canyon walls, and long cliff faces stained with colourful
mineral deposits.
At the start of the village, take the side road to the left to the
Wulu Fort Memorial
Park
(Wùlù Pàotái Jìniàn Gōngyuán)
to see the
Wulu Battery
, a pair of rusting canons that
were built by the Russians in 1903, lost to the Japanese during the Russo-Japanese War,
and then brought to Wulu in 1927 to suppress aboriginal revolts against the opening of
the region for mineral extraction. They are the real thing, not reproductions, and sit atop
a high crag perch still facing the village of Motian, which they shelled more than 80
years ago.
Wulu's hot-spring water is odourless and silky to the touch. One of the best places to
try it is the
Chief Spa Hotel
(Tiānlóng Fàndiàn;
089-935 075;
www.chiefspa.com.tw
;
r incl
