Taroko National Park & the East Coast - Taiwan - page 361

A must-do hike, the Walami Trail (Wǎlāmǐ Gǔdào) begins high above the Nanan River,
about 12km southeast of Yuli in the Nanan section of Yushan National Park. Along the
path there are high waterfalls, suspension bridges, lookouts, sections cut straight into the
cliff walls, and the constant sound (and occasional sight) of monkeys crashing through
the trees. It's a subtropical jungle out there - and one of the best preserved in Taiwan.
The views down the valley and across the mountains are chillingly beautiful.
The trail hails from the Japanese era and was built to facilitate the opening of the east
as well as maintain a careful eye on aboriginal tribes. In fact, the Walami Trail forms part
of the much-longer Japanese-era Batongguan Traversing Route, which cuts right across
Yushan National Park.
You can hike the first couple of kilometres without permits. With permits you can hike
the 14km (six to seven hours) up to the attractive Walami Cabin and spend the night. The
A-frame cabin has water and room for 24 hikers.
Apply at least a week ahead of time for a permit (see www.ysnp.gov.tw ) . On the day
of your hike check in at the Nanan Visitor Centre ( 03-888 7560; www.ysnp.gov.tw ;
9am-4.30pm, closed 2nd Tue of each month) and then pick up a mountain permit at the police
station. If you plan to return the same day you can pick up a one-day pass (on the same
day) at the visitor centre provided you apply earlier than 9am.
If you don't have your own transportation, a taxi from Yuli to the visitor centre will
cost about NT$400 - more if you want the driver to wait while you arrange permits and
then drive you the last 6km to the trailhead.
Consider renting a bike in Yuli. You'll first pass old Hakka villages dating back to the
1850s, then along open fields, and finally up the deep wooded Nanan River gorge
(passing Nanan Waterfall , Nánān Pùbù ), which just gets more lush and wild with every
kilometre.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
SIXTY STONE MOUNTAIN
One of the east coast's most mesmerising landscapes sits high above the Rift Val-
ley. As you ride the ever winding road up, it seems as if this is 'simply' yet another
journey through beautiful lush subtropical forest. But wait for the top, where
cleared forest gives way to a 400-acre table of undulating farmland dotted with
homesteads and pavilions. Imagine the English midlands 1000m up with a back-
drop of dark emerald mountains fast descending to a valley floor where they seem
to anchor themselves to earth with giant hooked fingers.