Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
BICYCLE
The 180km from Hualien to Taitung (and perhaps on to Chihpen hot springs) comprises
the most popular long-distance cycling route in Taiwan. An average cyclist will take
three days, with overnight stops in Shitiping and Dulan. The road winds, but the only
major climb, to the Baci Observation Tower, lies behind you after the first morning.
From Hualien to Chihpen, the highway has a smooth, wide, double-lined shoulder
marked for cyclists and scooters only.
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Cow Mountain Beach
The beach (Niúshān) is a short but wide stretch of sandy coastline bookmarked by rocky
cliffs about 27km south of Hualien. It's a lovely place to escape the crowds of the more
developed beaches on the east coast, but there's no swimming here because of the rough
surf and a quick drop off.
Besides the quiet beachside atmosphere, travellers come here to wander or even stay
the night in the
Huting Recreation Area
(Hūtíng Xiūxián Qū; 852 1875; admission NT$50;
10am-7pm)
, an old grazing area (Cow Mountain is called Huting by the local aborigin-
als) developed by a friendly Ami family into a rustic resort. There's a cafe-restaurant
serving Ami food, a simple campground (NT$150 per person) set up on the open grassy
fields, and rustic driftwood cabins (d/tw with shared bath NT$1200/2200, 30% discount
Sunday to Thursday).
The beach and recreation area are about 1.5km off the highway down a very steep road
that is often washed out. Look for the sign with the cow head on it for the turn-off. Just a
short distance further up Hwy 11 is
Baci Observation Tower
, a mandatory highway stop
with a mesmerising cliff-side view over the blue waters of Jici Beach. For cyclists this is
the summit of the longest climb on Highway 11.
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Jici (Chichi) Beach
This
beach
(Jīqí Hǎibīn Yóuqì Qū; admission NT$120; 9am-6pm)
is one of only two you can
swim at between Hualien and Taitung, so if you're looking for a dip, a paddle or a bit of
surfing, don't pass by - at least between May and September. Surfers can rent boards
(per day NT$500) at Tidal (
Click here
) in Hualien. The company also provides transport
to the beach for NT$200 on summer weekends, and surf lessons.
