Northern Taiwan - Taiwan - page 289

origines. In 1826 a solid brick wall was constructed around the city. Only one portion of
the wall remains today, the Eastern Gate MAP GOOGLE MAP (Dōngmén) , but it is in
fine shape and a great central landmark.
A number of buildings from the Japanese era dot the urban landscape and are worth a
nod as you wander about, including the train station, City Hall MAP GOOGLE MAP , the
Municipal Image Museum MAP GOOGLE MAP , Taiwan's first air-conditioned movie
theatre, and the Reclamation Hall MAP GOOGLE MAP . Beimen St, just north of the
City God Temple, also has a number of old dwellings and traditional arcades.
Guqifeng (Guqi Mountain) ART COLLECTION
(Gǔqífēng; 8am-6pm Sat) This must-see art collection includes a life-size four-
poster bed of pure jade, ivory dragon boats, hundreds of stunning wood and stone god
statues and relief panels, and detailed carved-wood replicas (the size of two pool tables)
of traditional villages and temples: the temple parade scene along the Japanese-era
facades in the town of Hukou is simply marvellous.
The art and curios are privately maintained by the Pu Tian Temple, whose founder,
Cheng Chai-chuan, collected the works over a 20-year period. Much sits jumbled in a
warehouse (left of the temple as you face it), while other parts are stored in a two-storey
display area (under the central courtyard), or down the garden area. At the time of writ-
ing the Terracotta Army room (a classroom-sized replica of the Xi'an, Shaanxi Province
Terracotta Army excavation site) was closed.
Pu Tian Temple sits on the slopes of Guqifeng, about 5km south of town. To get here
take a taxi from downtown (NT$250) or a bus 20 (NT$15) from Zhongzheng (Jungjeng)
Rd, near the train station. There are nine buses a day, the most useful leaving at 8.20am,
9.50am and 12.40pm. Afternoon buses return at 1.10pm, 2.10pm and 4.30pm.
City God Temple TAOIST TEMPLE
MAP GOOGLE MAP
(Chénghuáng Miào) First built in 1748, and masterfully restored in 1924, this Hsinchu land-
mark has the highest rank of all the city god temples in Taiwan, and is a splendid ex-
ample of the fine work local artisans were capable of in the early 20th century.
Examples of this work include the elegant structure itself with sweeping swallowtail
eaves, the shallow but vivid plafond ceiling, and the wealth of carved wooden brackets
and beams: look for dragons, phoenixes and melons, as well as panels of birds and
flowers (auspicious symbols when placed together). The jiǎnniàn (mosaic-like temple
decoration) dragons on the roof are superb.