Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
The imaginatively named Upper Baling (Shàng Bālíng) sits about 10km up the road from
Lower Baling. Perched on a high, thin ridgeline, the village offers some splendid moun-
tain views. More to the point for travellers, it's the site of the Lalashan Forest Reserve
(Lālāshān Guóyǒ Lín Zìrán Bǎohùqū; 391 2761; 8am-5pm) , a 63.9 sq km expanse
of mixed forest holding one of the largest stands of ancient red hinoki cypress trees left
in Taiwan.
The most ancient of the ancients is over 2800 years old, but there are a hundred more
that are not much younger. A 3.7km wooden boardwalk winds through the dense forest,
and interpretative signs indicate the age, species, height and diameter of each giant.
To get to the reserve by car, exit Hwy 7 at Lower Baling onto County Rd 116 and con-
tinue up a very steep road. About 4km past Upper Baling you'll reach the official start of
the park (and if you are taking a bus this is as far as it will take you). From here it's an-
other 2.7km to a car park. The trail begins just up from here and there's a small exhibi-
tion hall ( 9am-6pm) at the start where you can pick up maps and information.
It's possible to visit the reserve as a day trip from Taipei by public transport. First
catch a train to Taoyuan station. Head straight out the front exit and walk one block up
Zhongzheng St to Fuxing Rd. Turn right and look for the Zhongli Bus Station (really just
a stop) about 50m down on the far side of the street. Bus 5301 (NT$208, 3½ hours)
leaves at 6.30am and 12.30pm. The bus drops you off at Linbankou stop, which is at the
start of the reserve but still 2.7km to the old tree area. Buses from Linbankou return at
9.30am and 3.30pm. Note that there are other buses that run only as far as Upper Baling.
If you are staying the night, Magic World Country House (Fùxīanjìng Xiāngcūn Dùjià
Lǚguǎn; 03-391 2115; http://country-house.lalashan.tw ; d incl breakfast NT$2500, 30% weekday
discount) just down from Upper Baling is a good choice. The house has fabulous views
over the mountains from the rooms or outside on the long wooden deck.
Hikers should note that from the reserve it's possible to hike six hours all the way
downhill to Fushan near Wulai on the Fu-Ba National Trail ( Click here ) . Magic World
staff can arrange for you to be picked up or dropped off at Lalashan (which is helpful, es-
pecially if you are hiking up from Fushan to Baling). Request this service in advance.
For eating options head to Upper Baling where there are plenty of restaurants serving
up mountain cabbage and mushrooms, fried tofu, and mountain pig or chicken. Set meals
for two people are between NT$400 and NT$600. Look for the signs 2, 4 (ie meals for
two people or four people).
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
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