Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
SU-HUA HIGHWAY: SUAO TO HUALIEN
Just past Luodong, Hwy 9 rejoins the coast and begins what is known as the Suao-Huali-
en Hwy (Su-Hua Hwy). The road stretches for 118km along the coastline and, at one of
the most breathtaking sections, the Qingshui (Chingshui) cliffs, the highway is literally
cut into towering walls of marble and granite that loom 1000m above the rocky seashore.
The beginnings of the route go back to 1874, when the Qing government ordered a
road to be built along the east coast to end the region's isolation (and prove to the world
they actually were sovereign over all Taiwan). The Japanese widened the road in 1920,
battling with landslides and earthquakes the whole time. In fact, the road didn't officially
reopen for public use until 1932.
Plans to turn the highway into a superfast freeway have been tossed about for decades
but were finally scuttled in 2010 when the government announced that it would pay for
an expansion of the existing highway, but not for a full freeway. At the time of writing
the road was being widened, and straightened where possible using old tunnels, but
nature was not cooperating and closures and delays due to washouts were and will prob-
ably remain a regular occurrence.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
TURTLE ISLAND (GUISHAN ISLAND)
This captivating volcanic islet (Gūishān Dǎo), 10km off the coast of Ilan, is less than
3km long yet rises up to 398m. Once supporting a population of 750 people, the is-
land was taken over by the military in 1977 then returned to civilian rule in 2000.
These days Turtle Island is a protected marine environment and access is very lim-
ited.
In addition to fantastic views from the highest point, the island also has numer-
ous quirky geological features. These include
underwater hot springs
that turn the
offshore water into a bubbling cauldron,
volcanic fumaroles
that spout steam, and a
'turtle head'
that faces right or left depending on where you stand on shore.
Turtle Island is open from 1 March to 30 November, 9am to 5pm. If you wish to
land on the island you must apply in advance for a special permit (it's a hassle but
worth it). Download a copy of the application form from the
Northeast & Yilan Coast
with your passport information, three to 20 days before you wish to sail. Once you
get your permit, ask for a list of boat operators and make a reservation (none
speak English so ask the scenic office for help).
If you just want to circle the island or whale- and dolphin-watch you don't need
permits but you should still make a reservation. Call the Wushih Harbour reserva-
