Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
roads that eventually turn into pitched farm roads leading all the way to Jiaoxi on the
coast.
You need to cycle or drive to the trailhead. From Wulai, head east along the Tonghou
River and in a few kilometres register at the police checkpoint (bring your passport).
There is a daily limit on vehicles so arrive early.
At the end of the road (20km from Wulai) continue on foot or mountain bike. It takes
about three to four hours' hiking to reach the trail end, and another couple of hours down
to Jiaoxi. The trail is marked and signposted to the end but after that it can be tricky nav-
igating down via farm roads.
Cycling
With its wild mountain scenery so close to the capital, Wulai is a popular biking destina-
tion. To get here, most cyclists ride Provincial Hwy 9 (and then Hwy 9) from Bitan to
Wulai.
Within Wulai the Tonghou Trail is popular with mountain bikers and the road to Fush-
an with road cyclists. As the crow flies, Fushan isn't far from Wulai (about 18km), but
the landscape takes a noticeable turn to the wild along the road here as the Nanshih River
valley narrows, and the sandstone cliffs drip with dark vegetation. Landslides are very
common and Fushan is often isolated for months at a time.
THE GOOD-HEARTED MAMAS
Wulai may be a small paradise for hikers, cyclists and birdwatchers, but for dogs it
can be a living hell. Remote in feel, but so close to the city, the area's quiet lanes
and overgrown dead-ends are, sadly, a favourite dumping ground for Taipei's un-
wanted pets.
It's not just Wulai though. According to Council of Agriculture statistics, around
50,000 stray dogs are put down each year because of overcrowding in shelters. It's
a terribly high number, and this, plus the practice of dumping pets, is something
most Taiwanese are ashamed to admit still happens.
But for every action there is an equal reaction. When dumping started to become
common (around 30 years ago, as Taiwan became increasingly urbanised), some
people, such as Helen Chang, stepped up to help. One of hundreds of women
known island-wide as anÀixīn māmā(good-hearted mother), she currently takes
care of two dozen dogs on her own property, and also goes out every day to nearby
parks to feed strays and provide medical care.
'I started helping animals because I couldn't bear to see them suffering,' Helen
said. 'I also hoped that I can set an example for other people.'
