Taipei - Taiwan - page 188

Huìguǎn; 10am-5pm Tue-Sun) is open to the public, and has a charming restaurant
MAP GOOGLE MAP (set meals NT$200-240; 10am-5pm Tue-Sun) and cafe inside, but
you can walk along the verandahs and lawns of the others.
At the end of the street is Alethia University MAP GOOGLE MAP (Zhēnlǐ Dàxué) , the
first Western university in Taiwan, and of course founded by Mackay. The university's
original building, Oxford College MAP GOOGLE MAP (Niújīn Xuétáng) , was built in
1882 and fronts a Chinese-style pond and a large, more recent chapel.
Just down the hill to the right sits Tamsui's most famous sight, Fort San Domingo
MAP GOOGLE MAP (Hóngmáo Chéng; 2623 1001; 9.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat &
Sun, closed 1st Monday of each month) . The original fort, built in 1628 during the
Spanish occupation of Taiwan (1626-41), was dismantled by the Spanish before they ex-
ited Taiwan. The 13m high structure seen today is the Fort Anthonio built by the Dutch
in 1644. These days the original Spanish name is used, though to locals it's still the Red
Haired Fortress (a reference to the colour of Dutch hair).
The fort was under Chinese control from 1683 to 1868 when the British leased it,
painted it red and made it their consulate. Adjacent to the fort is the 1891 Former British
Consular Residence MAP GOOGLE MAP (Yīngguó Lǐngshìguǎn) , an elegant red-
brick Victorian-style house, complete with furnishings re-created from photographic re-
cords. The consulate was closed in Japanese times then reopened after WWII until 1972
when Britain ended diplomatic relations with the ROC.
About 1km beyond Fort San Domingo on Zhongzheng Rd is the turn-off for Hobe
Fort MAP GOOGLE MAP (Hùwěi Pàotái; admission NT$25; 9am-5pm Tue-Sun) , built in
1886 when then governor Liu Ming-chuan was attempting to shore up Taiwan's defences
to protect it against foreign invaders. If Fort San Domingo is meant to convey authority,
Hobe Fort was built for military action. This prime heritage spot (it's suffered almost no
reconstruction) has thick earthen walls, massive gates, four batteries and steep steps to its
ramparts to deter intruders. While it was used by the Japanese as a base for artillery fir-
ing practice, the fort never saw any military action.
Back on Zhongzheng Rd, you can catch a bus or follow the boardwalk back to town. If
you go right you'll end up at the sunset-viewing cementland of Fisherman's Wharf, now
passé even among Taiwanese given the incredible beauty of natural lookouts in Bali or
Tamsui.
DON'T MISS