Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
SOUTH COAST OUTPORTS
If you have the time and patience, a trip across the south coast with its wee fishing vil-
lages - called outports - is the best way to witness Newfoundland's unique culture.
These little communities are some of the most remote settlements in North America,
reachable only by boat as they cling to the convoluted shore. An anomaly is Burgeo
(population 1460), connected by an easy road trip; it has an unspoiled, isolated feel, yet
good amenities for travelers. Ramea (population 525) is another uncomplicated option.
It's an island just offshore from Burgeo with lodging and activities.
Other outports along the coast include Grey River, François and McCallum. But hurry:
the villages are dwindling fast as government pressure and lack of employment force res-
idents to relocate to more accessible areas. The community of Grand Bruit was the latest
to call it quits. Down to just 18 residents, they packed up and left for good in 2010.
Sights & Activities
When the sun is out and the sea shimmers between endless inlets and islands,
Burgeo
is
a dream. Climb the stairs to
Maiden Tea Hill
and look out in admiration. The 7km of
white-sand beaches at
Sandbanks Provincial Park
may be the best in the entire
province (at least the piping plover who dawdle there think so).
Author Farley Mowat lived in Burgeo for several years, until he penned
A Whale for
the Killing
and irked the locals. The topic tells the story of how Burgeo's townsfolk
treated an 80-tonne fin whale trapped in a nearby lagoon. Let's just say the whale's out-
come was not a happy one. Locals can point out the lagoon and Mowat's old house,
though expect to get an earful about it.
The other outports are great areas for remote
camping
,
hiking
and
fishing
; ask locals
or at the visitors center in Port aux Basques about arranging a guide. Tiny
François
, sur-
rounded by towering walls of rock, is particularly gorgeous.
Sleeping & Eating
Ramea Retreat
HOSTEL, B&B $
( 709-625-2522;
www.ramea.easternoutdoors.com
;
2 Main St, Ramea; dm/r $39/79; May-
Nov; )
The owners have 10 hostel beds at their lodge, where they arrange kayaking,
birdwatching, hiking and fishing tours. In addition, they rent rooms in various vintage
clapboard houses scattered around Ramea.
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