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taurant serving finely prepared seafood and wine. The basil-buttered salmon gets kudos.
Fish cakes, crab au gratin and cod burgers also please the palate.
Northern Delight
SEAFOOD $$$
( 709-623-2220; Rte 436, Gunners Cove; mains $10-16; 8am-9pm)
Dine on local favorites
such as turbot cheeks and pan-fried cod, fresh lobster and mussels, or just have a 'Newfie
Mug-up' (bread, molasses and a strong cup of tea). There's live music on some evenings.
Norseman Restaurant & Art Gallery
SEAFOOD $$$
$$$
( 709-623-2018;
www.valhalla-lodge.com
; Rte 436, L'Anse aux Meadows village; mains $20-38;
noon-9pm May-Sep)
This casual, waterfront restaurant may be Newfoundland's best. Relish
the butternut squash soup, peruse a few vegetarian options or sink your teeth into tender
Labrador caribou tenderloin. Norseman chills all its drinks with iceberg ice. Patrons who
order lobster hand-pick their dinner by donning rubber boots and heading out front to the
ocean, where the freshly caught crustaceans await in crates.
WORTH A TRIP
ROUTE 432 & THE FRENCH SHORE
Surprises await along lonely Rte 432. First is
Tuckamore Lodge
( 888-865-6361,
709-865-6361;
www.tuckamorelodge.com
; r incl breakfast $150-180; )
, a wood-hewn,
lakeside retreat with ridiculously comfortable beds and home-cooked meals, loc-
ated smack in the middle of nowhere. You'll pass about 20 moose on your way out
to it. Owner Barb Genge arranges all manner of activities (fishing, birdwatching,
hunting, photography classes) with first-rate guides.
The little towns along the coast are known as the
French Shore
(
www.frenchshore.com
)
for the French fishers who lived in the area from 1504 to 1904.
Top of the heap is
Conche
with its intriguing gaggle of sights: a
WWII airplane
that
crashed in town in 1942, the seaside
Captain Coupelongue walking trail
past old
French gravemarkers, and a crazy-huge
tapestry
in the local interpretation center. A
woman named Delight runs the sunny
Bits-n-Pieces Cafe
( 709-622-5400; mains
$10-15; 8am-8pm, to 9pm Thu-Sat)
, ladling out cod cakes, Thai chicken and other fare
that's, well, delightful. Two simple rooms above the cafe comprise the
Stage Cove
B&B
(r $95; )
if you want to spend the night. It's about 68km from Tuckamore
Lodge; take Rte 433 to unpaved Rte 434.
TOP OF CHAPTER
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