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1km trail to Bird Rock. It's an easy footpath through fields of sheep and blue irises, and
then suddenly you're at the cliff's edge facing a massive, near-vertical rock swarmed by
squawking birds. There are 70,000 of them, including gannets, kittiwakes, murres and
razorbills. The reserve is isolated, so you'll have to travel for lodging.
of Branch 22km away, is strongly recommended. Set high on a hill, you can see the
ocean and spouting whales from everywhere: the front yard's Adirondack chairs, the
porch, the front picture window and all three guest rooms. It's owned by a local family -
Chris is a naturalist at the reserve, wife Priscilla is the town mayor and mum Rita cooks
breakfast.
Near the reserve turnoff is
Gannet's Nest Restaurant
( 709-337-2175; Rte 100; mains
$8-15; 8am-8pm)
, frying some of the province's crispiest fish and chips and baking a
mean rhubarb pie.
EASTERN NEWFOUNDLAND
Two peninsulas seem to grasp awkwardly out at the sea and comprise the sliver that is
Eastern Newfoundland. The beloved, well-touristed Bonavista Peninsula projects north-
ward. Historic fishing villages freckle its shores, and windblown walking trails swipe its
vice center, though there's not much for sightseers.
To the south juts the massive but less-traveled Burin Peninsula, another region of fish-
ing villages. These towns are struggling to find their way in the post-cod world. The
ferry for France - yes, France, complete with wine, éclairs and Brie - departs from For-
tune and heads to the nearby French islands of St-Pierre and Miquelon, a regional high-
light.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Trinity
POP 250
Let's set the record straight: Trinity is the Bonavista Peninsula's most popular stop, a his-
toric town of crooked seaside lanes, storybook heritage houses and gardens with white
picket fences. Trinity Bight is the name given to the 12 communities in the vicinity, in-
cluding Trinity, Port Rexton and New Bonaventure.
While Trinity is movie-set lovely, some visitors have complained that its perfection is
a bit boring. But if you like historic buildings and theater along with your scenery - and
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