Nova Scotia - Nova Scotia, New Brunswick and Prince Edward Island - page 177

The specialty is the lobster angel-hair pasta with crab and mussels in a brandy cream
sauce, but the lobster dinners get our vote for best value of its kind on the island.
White Point to Neil's Harbour
On your way south to Ingonish, leave the Cabot Trail to follow the rugged, windswept
White Point Rd via Smelt Brook to the fishing villages of White Point and Neil's Har-
bour . These are gritty, hard-working towns, but there is some nice architecture, colorful
homes, and illuminated, slightly disorienting views of Cape North to Meat Cove when
the sun hits them at the end of the day. These are villages where there are as many fish-
ing boats as houses - the area feels distinctly off the beaten tourist track.
Stay the night at homey Two Tittle ( 866-231-4087, 902-383-2817; www.twotittle.com ;
2119 White Point Rd, White Point; r $60-100; ) , which smells like supper and whose
grandparent-like proprietors are in most evenings watching Wheel of Fortune . Don't
miss the short but gorgeous walk out back to the Two Tittle Islands the B&B is named
for and look out for whales and eagles.
The perfect stop for lunch or dinner is Chowder House (chowder from $6, suppers from
$14; 11am-8:30pm) , out beyond the lighthouse at Neil's Harbour. It's famous for its
chowder, but also serves great-value suppers of snow crab, lobster, mussels and more.
There are plenty of dining locals, who like to chat with folks from far away while they
splatter themselves with seafood juice.
Around St Ann's Bay
Settle into the artsy calm of winding roads, serene lakes, eagles soaring overhead and a
never-ending collection of artists' workshops that dot the Cabot Trail like Easter eggs.
Although you could skip the drive around St Ann's Bay and take a $5.50 ferry to Eng-
lishtown, you'd be missing a unique leg of the trail. If you explore deeper, you'll discov-
er walking trails to waterfalls, and scenic vistas, Mi'kmaw culture and a decidedly inter-
esting mishmash of characters.
Sights & Activities
Don't leave the area without stopping in at an artist's workshop or two; you'll find pot-
tery, leather and pewter workers, a crazy wonderful hat shop and more. The artists are
easy to find - just keep an eye out for the signs along the main road.