Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Founded in 1750, one year after Halifax, Dartmouth is Halifax' counterpart just across
the harbor. It is more residential than Halifax, and the downtown area lacks the capital's
charm and bustle, but it can make a pleasant base, since getting to Halifax by bus or ferry
is so easy.
It's definitely worth a day trip just for the short cruise across the harbor on the ferry,
the oldest saltwater ferry system in North America. Alderney Gate houses Dartmouth's
ferry terminal.
Dartmouth Heritage Museum
( 902-464-2300;
www.dartmouthheritagemuseum.ns.ca
;
26 Newcastle St; admission $3; 10am-5pm Tue-Sun mid-Jun-Aug, 1:30-5pm Wed-Sat Sep-mid-
Jun)
displays an eclectic collection in
Evergreen House
, the former home of folklorist
Helen Creighton, who traversed the province in the early 20th century recording stories
and songs. Tickets include same-day admission to the 1786
Quaker House
(59 Ochterlo-
ney St; 10am-5pm Tue-Sun Jun-Aug)
, the oldest house in the Halifax area, which was
built by Quaker whalers from Nantucket who fled the American Revolution.
Shubie Campground
( 800-440-8450, 902-435-8328;
www.shubiecampground.com
; Jay-
bee Dr, off Waverley Rd; campsites from $33.50)
, the only campground accessible from Hali-
fax on public transportation, is privately run and municipally owned. Facilities include
showers and a laundry.
Haligonians head to Dartmouth just for the massive buttery chocolate croissants at
Two If By Sea
(66 Ochterloney St; chocolate croissants $3; 7am-6pm Mon-Fri, 8am-5pm Sat &
Sun)
. But be warned, they are usually sold out by about 1pm. Even sans pastries, it's a
hip place to stop for coffee and people-watching on a sunny day, with a distinctly Dart-
mouth atmosphere.
DON'T MISS
FISHERMAN'S COVE
If you're heading up the Eastern Shore from Dartmouth or Halifax, detour onto
Hwy 322 to Fisherman's Cove in Eastern Passage, a Popeye-esque fishing port with
some of the region's best seafood samplings.
Wharf Wraps
(104 Government Wharf Rd;
fish & chips $12; 10am-6pm Jun-Sep)
has an outdoor seating area and deservedly fam-
ous (and huge) portions of fish and chips, or head next door to the
Fish Basket
(100
Government Wharf Rd; 9am-6pm)
for fish and lobster by the pound or a delicious fresh
lobster sandwich ($8) for the road.
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