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Finally, just east of Ochopee, is the quintessential 1950s-style swamp shack, Joanie's
Blue Crab Cafe ( joaniesbluecrabcafe.com ; Tamiami Trail; mains $9-17; 9am-5pm) , with open
rafters, colorful, shellacked picnic tables and a swamp dinner of gator nuggets and frit-
ters.
Everglades City
This small town at the edge of the park makes a good base for exploring the 10,000 Is-
lands region. With large renovated rooms, Everglades City Motel ( 800-695-8353,
239-695-4244; www.evergladescitymotel.com ; 310 Collier Ave; r from $80; ) is exception-
ally good value, and the fantastically friendly staff can hook you up with any kind of
tour. The same can be said for the Ivey House Bed & Breakfast ( 877-567-0679,
239-695-3299; www.iveyhouse.com ; 107 Camellia St; lodge $74-120, inn $99-209; ) . Choose
between basic lodge accommodations or somewhat sprucer inn rooms, then book some
of the region's best nature trips with the on-site North American Canoe Tours (NACT;
877-567-0679, 239-695-3299; www.evergladesadventures.com ; 107 Camellia St, Ivey House Bed &
Breakfast; tours $124, canoe rentals $25-35; Nov-mid-Apr) . Ask about room/tour packages.
For dinner, try the Seafood Depot (102 Collier Ave; mains $6-20; 10:30am-9pm) , a haven
of fried seafood and a great place to sample gator and frog's legs; just douse with Ta-
basco and devour.
A KINDER, GENTLER WILDERNESS ENCOUNTER
As you explore Florida's outdoors and encounter its wildlife, keep in mind the fol-
lowing guidelines.
Airboats and swamp buggies For exploring wetlands, airboats are better than big-
wheeled buggies, but nonmotorized (and silent) canoes and kayaks are least-dam-
aging and disruptive.
Wild dolphins Captive dolphins are typically rescued animals already acclimated
to humans. However, federal law makes it illegal to feed, pursue or touch wild dol-
phins in the ocean.
Manatee swims When swimming near manatees, a federally protected en-
dangered species, look but don't touch. 'Passive observation' is the standard.
Feeding wild animals In a word, don't. Acclimating wild animals to humans usually
leads to the animal's death, whether because of accidents or aggression.
 
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