Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
…Our aim must never be to defeat or humiliate the white man but to win his
friendship and understanding. We must come to see that the end we seek is a soci-
ety at peace with itself, a society that can live with its conscience. That will be a day
not of the white man, not of the black man. That will be the day of man as man. I
know you are asking today, 'How long will it take?' I come to say to you this after-
noon however difficult the moment, however frustrating the hour, it will not be
long, because truth pressed to earth will rise again.
How long? Not long, because no lie can live forever.
How long? Not long, because you still reap what you sow.
How long? Not long. Because the arm of the moral universe is long but it bends
toward justice.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Mobile
Wedged between Mississippi and Florida, the only real Alabama coastal city is Mobile
(mo- beel ), a busy industrial seaport with green spaces, shady boulevards and four histor-
ic districts. It's ablaze with azaleas in early spring, and festivities are held throughout
February for Mardi Gras ( www.mobilemardigras.com ) , which has been celebrated here for
nearly 200 years. The Dauphin St historic district is where you'll find most bars and res-
taurants, and it's where much of the Mardi Gras action blooms.
USS Alabama ( www.ussalabama.com ; 2703 Battleship Pkwy; adult/child $15/6; 8am-6pm
Apr-Sep, to 5pm Oct-Mar) , a 690ft behemoth famous for escaping nine major WWII battles
unscathed, is a worthwhile self-guided tour. Parking's $2.
Battle House ( 251-338-2000; www.marriott.com ; 26 N Royal St; r from $159;
) is the best address in downtown Mobile. You'll want to stay in the original historic
wing with its ornate domed marble lobby, though the striking new tower is on the water-
front. Home to Mobile's best burgers and consistently voted one of America's best bars,
the ramshackle Callaghan's Irish Social Club ( www.callaghansirishsocialclub.com ; 916 Char-
leston St; burgers $7-9; 11am-9pm Mon, 11am-10pm Tue & Wed, 11am-11pm Thu-Sat) in a
1920s-era building that used to house a meat market in the Oakleigh District, is unmiss-
able. Closer to the town center, Wintzell's ( 251-432-4605; www.wintzellsoysterhouse.com ;
605 Dauphin St; mains $11-23; 11am-10pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat) , open since 1938,
serves oysters raw, chargrilled or fried in brew-house environs.
 
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