The South - Eastern USA - page 784

The posh yet antiquated Jekyll Island Club Hotel ( 800-535-9547; www.jekyllclub.com ;
371 Riverview Dr; d/ste from $179/279; ) is a great place for a drink after a sun-
set seafood dinner at its waterfront Latitude 31 Restaurant & Rah Bar
( www.latitude31andrahbar.com ; mains $14-23; from 11:30am Tue-Sun) , located right on the
wharf. For something closer to the best beaches, find Villas By The Sea (
912-635-2521, 800-841-6262; www.villasbythesearesort.com ; 1175 N Beachview Dr; condos from
$149) .

Cumberland Island & St Marys

An unspoiled paradise, a backpacker's fantasy, a site for day trips or extended stays - it's
clear why the family of 19th-century industrialist and philanthropist Andrew Carnegie
used Cumberland as a retreat long ago. Most of this southernmost barrier island is now
occupied by the Cumberland Island National Seashore ( www.nps.gov/cuis ; admission $4) .
Almost half of its 36,415 acres consists of marsh, mudflats and tidal creeks. On the ocean
side are 16 miles of wide, sandy beach that you might have all to yourself. The island's
interior is characterized by maritime forest. Ruins from the Carnegie estate Dungeness
are astounding, as are the wild turkeys, tiny fiddler crabs and beautiful butterflies. Feral
horses roam the island and are a common sight.
The only public access to the island is via boat to/from the quirky, lazy town of St
Marys ( www.stmaryswelcome.com ) . Convenient and pleasant ferries ( 912-882-4335;
www.nps.gov/cuis ; round-trip adult/senior/child $20/18/14) leave from the mainland at the St
Marys dock at 9am and 11:45am and return at 10:15am and 4:45pm. Reservations are
staunchly recommended well before you arrive, and visitors are required to check in at
the visitor's center ( 912-882-4336; www.nps.gov/cuis ; 8am-4:30pm) at the dock at
least 30 minutes prior to departure. December through February, the ferry does not oper-
ate on Tuesday or Wednesday.
St Marys caters to tourists visiting Cumberland. This tiny, lush one-horse town has a
number of comfortable B&Bs, including the lovely Spencer House Inn (
912-882-1872; www.spencerhouseinn.com ; 200 Osborne St; r $135-245) , circa 1872. It's brushed-
up pink, with 14 spacious rooms on three floors. The staff book ferry reservations, pack
lunches for day trippers and serve a full gourmet breakfast each morning. When you're
hungry, find Riverside Cafe ( www.riversidecafesaintmarys.com ; 106 St Marys Rd; mains $8-18;
11am-9pm Mon-Fri, from 8:30am Sat & Sun) , a wonderful Greek diner with sea views.
On Cumberland Island, the only private accommodations are at the Greyfield Inn (
904-261-6408; www.greyfieldinn.com ; r incl meals $425-635) , a mansion built in 1900, with a
two-night minimum stay. Camping is available at Sea Camp Beach ( 912-882-4335;