Travel Reference
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vicious Confederate assault on the first day that took Grant by surprise, his creative man-
euver on the second day held Pittsburgh Landing, and turned the Confederates back. Dur-
ing the fight over 3500 soldiers died and nearly 24,000 were wounded. A relative un-
known at the beginning of the war, Grant went on to lead the Union to victory and even-
tually became the 18th president of the United States.
The vast Shiloh National Military Park ( www.nps.gov/shil ; 1055 Pittsburg Landing Rd;
park dawn-dusk, visitor center 8am-5pm) is located just north of the Mississippi bor-
der near the town of Crump, TN, and can only be seen by car. Sights include the Shiloh
National Cemetery, and an overlook of the Cumberland River where Union reinforce-
ment troops arrived by ship. The visitor center gives out maps, shows a video about the
battle, and sells an audio driving tour.
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Nashville
Imagine you're an aspiring country singer arriving in downtown Nashville after days of
hitchhiking, with nothing but your battered guitar on your back. Gaze up at the neon
lights of Lower Broadway, take a deep breath of smoky, beer-perfumed air, feel the boot-
stompin' rumble from deep inside the crowded honky-tonks, and say to yourself 'I've
made it.'
For country-music fans and wannabe songwriters all over the world, a trip to Nashville
is the ultimate pilgrimage. Since the 1920s the city has been attracting musicians who
have taken the country genre from the 'hillbilly music' of the early 20th century to the
slick 'Nashville sound' of the 1960s to the punk-tinged alt-country of the 1990s.
Its many musical attractions range from the Country Music Hall of Fame to the
revered Grand Ole Opry to Jack White's niche of a record label. It also has a lively uni-
versity community, some excellent down-home grub, and some seriously kitschy souven-
irs.
 
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