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of the head as soon as you sit down. The lunch menu at this funky little gold- and purple-
painted cafe rotates daily - look for killer fried chicken and catfish, melt-in-your-mouth
spiced cabbage and an exquisite eggy custard pie.
Arcade DINER$
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( www.arcaderestaurant.com ; 540 S Main St; mains $8-10; 7am-3pm, plus dinner Fri) Elvis used
to eat at this ultra-retro diner, Memphis' oldest. Crowds still pack in for sublime sweet-
potato pancakes - as fluffy, buttery and addictive as advertised. The rest of the dishes are
standard greasy-spoon fare.
Dyer's FAST FOOD$
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( www.dyersonbeale.com ; 205 Beale St; burgers $4-7; 11am-midnight Sun-Thu, to late Fri & Sat)
Purportedly one of America's best burgers - annointed so by both Esquire and Playboy -
the meat is smacked flat with a spatula at least 4in wide then submerged in bubbling
grease, which is continuously filtered like it is a life-giving elixir when, well, it's prob-
ably the opposite.
Charlie Vergos' Rendezvous BARBECUE$$$
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( 901-523-2746; www.hogsfly.com ; 52 S 2nd St; mains $10-20; 4:30-10:30pm Tue-Thu,
11am-11pm Fri, from 11:30am Sat) Tucked in an alleyway off Union Ave, this subterranean
institution sells an astonishing 5 tons of its exquisite dry-rubbed ribs weekly. The ribs
don't come with any sauce, but the pork shoulder does, so try a combo and you'll have
plenty of sauce to enjoy. The beef brisket is also tremendous. With a superb, no-nonsense
wait staff, and walls plastered with historic memorabilia, eating here is an event. Expect
a wait.
Majestic Grille CONTINENTAL$$$
$$$
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( 901-522-8555; www.majesticgrille.com ; 145 S Main St; mains $17-36; 11am-10pm Mon-Thu,
to 11pm Fri & Sat, to 9pm Sun) Set in an old silent-movie theater, with pre-talkie black and
whites strobing in the handsome dark-wood dining room, here is classic continental fare,
from roasted half chickens, to seared tuna and grilled pork tenderloin, and four varieties
of hand-cut filet mignon. Just a stone's throw from Beale St.
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