Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
www.vacreepertrailbikeshop.com ; 201 Pecan St; bike hire 2hr/day $10/20;
9am-6pm Sun-Fri,
from 8am Sat) near the trailhead.
Martha Washington Inn ( 276-628-3161; www.marthawashingtoninn.com ; 150 W Main St; r
from $173; ) , opposite the Barter, is the region's premier historic hotel, a
Victorian sprawl of elegant rooms and excellent amenities (wood-paneled library, out-
door Jacuzzi, saltwater pool and tennis courts).
Step back in time at Pop Ellis Soda Shoppe (217 W Main St; mains $8-11; 11am-4pm
Mon, to 9pm Tue-Sat) with a beautifully restored interior reminiscent of 1920s-era soda
fountains. Thick burgers, wraps and nachos are a fine accompaniment to hand-jerked so-
das and milkshakes.
Equal parts cafe and bookstore, Zazzy'z (380 E Main St; mains around $5; 8am-6pm
Mon-Sat, 9am-3pm Sun) serves inexpensive quiches, lasagnas and paninis, plus decent cof-
fee.
WORTH A TRIP
CARTER FAMILY FOLD
In a tiny hamlet of SW Virginia, formerly known as Maces Spring (today part of
Hiltons), you'll find one of the hallowed birthplaces of mountain music. The Carter
Family Fold ( 276-386-6054; www.carterfamilyfold.org ; 3449 AP Carter Hwy, Hiltons; adult/child
$8/1; 7:30pm Sat) continues the musical legacy begun by the talented Carter fam-
ily back in 1927. Every Saturday night, the 900-person arena hosts first-rate
bluegrass and gospel bands; there's also a museum with family memorabilia and
the original mid-1800s log cabin where AP Carter was born. With no nearby
lodging, your best bet is to stay in Abingdon (30 miles east), Kingsport, TN (12
miles southwest) or Bristol (25 miles southeast).
The Crooked Road
When Scotch-Irish fiddle-and-reel married African American banjo-and-percussion,
American mountain or 'old-time' music was born, with such genres as country and
bluegrass. The latter genre still dominates the Blue Ridge, and Virginia's Heritage Music
Trail, the 250-mile-long Crooked Road ( www.thecrookedroad.org ) , takes you through nine
sites associated with that history, along with some eye-stretching mountain scenery. It's
well worth taking a detour and joining the music-loving fans of all ages who kick up
their heels (many arrive with tap shoes) at these festive jamborees. During a live show
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