Washington, DC & the Capital Region - Eastern USA - page 600

SCENIC DRIVE: VIRGINIA'S HORSE COUNTRY

About 40 miles west of Washington, DC, suburban sprawl gives way to endless
green farms, vineyards, quaint villages and palatial estates and ponies. This is
'Horse Country,' where wealthy Washingtonians pursue their equestrian pastimes.
The following route is the most scenic drive to Shenandoah National Park. From
DC, take Rte 50 West to Middleburg , a too-cute-for-words town of B&Bs, taverns,
wine shops and boutiques. The National Sporting Library ( 540-687-6542;
www.nsl.org ; 102 The Plains Rd; 10am-4pm Wed-Sat, from noon Sun) is a museum and
research center devoted to horse and field sports such as foxhunting, dressage,
steeplechase and polo.
Griffin Tavern ( 540-675-3227; 659 Zachary Taylor Hwy; mains $9-18; 11:30am-9pm Mon-
Fri, to 10pm Sat, 10:30am-9pm Sun) is a quintessential British pub with English and Irish
food and beer. Head southwest on Rte 522 and 211 to Flint Hill.
Six miles down Rte 211 is Little Washington , another cute town that's home to
one of the finest B&B restaurants in America, the Inn at Little Washington (
540-675-3800; www.theinnatlittlewashington.com ; cnr Middle & Main Sts, Washington, VA; dinner prix
fixe $148-165; 5:30-11pm) . The Inn at Little Washington has been perfecting locally
sourced, seasonally selected menus since well before that practice became a
culinary trend. The result is New American cuisine inspired by the best of the Pied-
mont and the Chesapeake, served in an atmosphere that puts one in mind of a ro-
mantic French country inn. Book early and eat well. Further down the road at the
foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains is Sperryville. Its many galleries and shops
are a must-stop for antique-lovers. Continue 9 miles west to reach the Thornton
Gap entrance of Skyline Dr in Shenandoah National Park.

Sleeping & Eating
Camping is at four NPS campgrounds ( 877-444-6777; www.recreation.gov ; $15-25) :
Mathews Arm (Mile 22.1; campsites $15) , Big Meadows (Mile 51.3; campsites $20) , Lewis
Mountain (Mile 57.5; campsites $15, no reservations) and Loft Mountain (Mile 79.5; campsites
$15) . Most are open from mid-May to October. Camping elsewhere requires a free back-
country permit, available from any visitor center.
For not-so-rough lodging, stay at Skyland Resort ( 877-247-9261;
www.goshenandoah.com/Skyland-Resort.aspx ; Skyline Dr, Mile 41.7; r from $140, incl breakfast
$150; Apr-Oct; ) , Big Meadows Lodge ( 540-999-2255; www.goshenandoah.com/Big-
Meadows-Lodge.aspx ; Skyline Dr, Mile 51.2; r $130-210; ) or Lewis Mountain

late May-Oct;