Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Alternatively, take the Essex Steam Train & Riverboat Ride ( 860-767-0103;
www.essexsteamtrain.com ; 1 Railroad Ave; adult/child $17/9, with cruise $26/17; ) , an antique
steam locomotive that runs 6 scenic miles to Deep River, where you can cruise on a
Mississippi-style riverboat up to East Haddam before returning by train.
The landmark Griswold Inn (
860-767-1776; www.griswoldinn.com ; 36 Main St; r incl
breakfast $110-190, ste $190-305;
) has been Essex's physical and social centerpiece
since 1776.
East Haddam
Two intriguing attractions mark this small town on the east bank of the Connecticut
River. The medieval-style Gillette Castle ( 860-526-2336; www.ct.gov/dep/gillettecastle ;
67 River Rd; adult/child $6/2; 10am-4:30pm late May-mid-Oct; ) is a wildly eccentric
stone-turreted mansion built in 1919 by actor William Gillette, who made his fortune
playing Sherlock Holmes.
With residents such as Gillette and banker William Goodspeed, East Haddam became
a regular stopover on the summer circuit for New Yorkers, who travelled up on Good-
speed's steam ship to visit the Goodspeed Opera House ( 860-873-8668;
www.goodspeed.org ; 6 Main St; tickets $45-70; performances Wed-Sun Apr-Dec) , an elegant
1876 Victorian music hall known as 'the birthplace of the American musical.'
TOP OF CHAPTER
Hartford
Despite its depressing reputation as the 'filing cabinet of America,' Connecticut's capital
city, Hartford, is full of surprises. Settled in the 17th century by Dutch traders and, later,
Puritans fleeing persecution in Massachusetts, it is one of New England's oldest cities
and as such harbors a collection of impressive sights and museums. The Greater Hart-
ford Welcome Center ( 860-244-0253; www.letsgoarts.org/welcomecenter ; 100 Pearl St;
9am-5pm Mon-Fri) distributes tourist information.
Sights
Mark Twain House & Museum MUSEUM
( 860-247-0998; www.marktwainhouse.org ; 351 Farmington Ave; adult/child $16/10;
9:30am-5:30pm Mon-Sat, noon-5:30pm Sun) It was at this former home of Samuel Lang-
 
 
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