New York, New Jersey & Pennsylvania - Eastern USA - page 219

Hazelnut Kitchen MODERN AMERICAN$$$
( 607-387-4433; 53 East Main St, Trumansburg; mains $14-23; 5-9pm Thu-Mon) The
new owners, a young couple from Chicago interested in collaborating with area farmers,
have maintained Hazlenut's status as arguably the finest restaurant in the region. Local
ingredients, of course, seasonally inspired menu and au courant meat dishes such as pig
face torchon.
Moosewood Restaurant VEGETARIAN$$$
( www.moosewoodcooks.com ; 215 N Cayuga St, Ithaca; mains $8-18; 11:30am-8:30pm, 5:30-9pm
Sun; ) Famous for its creative and constantly changing vegetarian menu and recipe
topics by founder Mollie Katzen.
Getting There & Away
Shortline Bus ( www.coachusa.com ) has frequent departures to New York City ($53, four
hours). Delta Airlines has direct flights from the Ithaca Tompkins Regional Airport
(ITH; www.flyithaca.com ) to Detroit, Newark and Philadelphia.
TOP OF CHAPTER
The Adirondacks
Majestic and wild, the Adirondacks, a mountain range with 42 peaks over 4000ft high,
rival any of the nation's wilderness areas for sheer awe-inspiring beauty. The 9375 sq
miles of park and forest preserve that climb from central New York State to the Canadian
border include towns, mountains, lakes, rivers and more than 2000 miles of hiking trails.
There's good trout, salmon and pike fishing, along with excellent camping spots. The
Adirondack Forest Preserve covers 40% of the park, preserving the area's pristine integ-
rity. In colonial times settlers exploited the forests for beaver fur, timber and hemlock
bark, but by the 19th century 'log cabin' wilderness retreats, both in the form of hotels
and grand estates, became fashionable.
Lake George
Maybe it's a blessing that the primary gateway to the Adirondacks, the village of Lake
George , is a kitsch tourist town full of cotton candy, arcades and cheap souvenirs. The
real reason for coming is the 32-mile-long lake itself, with its crystalline waters and for-