Great Lakes - Eastern USA - page 1177

Southern Minnesota
Some of the scenic southeast can be seen on short drives from the Twin Cities. Better is a
loop of a few days' duration, following the rivers and stopping in some of the historic
towns and state parks.
Due east of St Paul, on Hwy 36, touristy Stillwater ( www.discoverstillwater.com ) , on the
lower St Croix River, is an old logging town with restored 19th-century buildings, river
cruises and antique stores. It's also an official 'booktown,' an honor bestowed upon a
few small towns worldwide that possess an extraordinary number of antiquarian book-
shops. What's more, the town is filled with classy historic B&Bs.
Larger Red Wing , to the south on US 61, is a similar but less interesting restored
town, though it does offer its famous Red Wing Shoes - actually more like sturdy boots -
and salt-glaze pottery.
The prettiest part of the Mississippi Valley area begins south of here. To drive it and
see the best bits, you'll need to flip-flop back and forth between Minnesota and Wiscon-
sin on the Great River Road.
From Red Wing, cross the river on US 63. Before heading south along the water,
though, make a cheesy detour. Go north on US 63 in Wisconsin for 12 miles until you hit
US 10. Turn right and within a few miles you're in Ellsworth, the 'Cheese Curd Capital.'
Pull into Ellsworth Cooperative Creamery ( 715-273-4311;
www.ellsworthcheesecurds.com ; 232 N Wallace St; 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat & Sun) -
curd-maker for A&W and Dairy Queen - and savor squeaky goodness hot off the press
(11am is prime time).
Back along the river on Wisconsin Hwy 35, a great stretch of road edges the bluffs be-
side Maiden Rock , Stockholm and Pepin . Follow your nose to local bakeries and cafes
in the area.
Continuing south, cross back over the river to Wabasha in Minnesota, which has a
historic downtown and large population of bald eagles that congregate in winter. To learn
more, visit the National Eagle Center ( 651-565-4989; www.nationaleaglecenter.org ; 50
Pembroke Ave; adult/child $8/5; 10am-5pm) .
Inland and south, Bluff Country is dotted with limestone bluffs, southeast Minnesota's
main geological feature. Lanesboro ( www.lanesboro.com ) is a gem for rails-to-trails cyc-
ling and canoeing. Seven miles westward on County Rd 8 (call for directions) is Old
Barn Resort ( 507-467-2512; www.barnresort.com ; dm/r/ tent site/RV site $25/50/30/44;
Apr-mid-Nov; ) , a pastoral hostel-campground-restaurant-outfitter. Harmony , south of
Lanesboro, is the center of an Amish community and another welcoming town.