Great Lakes - Eastern USA - page 1054

second stop sign go right (you'll see a trail marker). And yes, it really was part of the old
stagecoach route between Galena and Chicago

Sleeping & Eating
Galena brims with quilt-laden B&Bs. Most cost $100 to $200 nightly and fill up during
weekends. The visitor center website provides contact information. Presidential types can
be like Grant and Lincoln and stay in the well-furnished rooms at DeSoto House Hotel (
815-777-0090; www.desotohouse.com ; 230 S Main St; r $128-200; ) , which dates
from 1855. Grant Hills Motel ( 877-421-0924; www.granthills.com ; 9372 US 20; r $70-100;
) is a no-frills option 1.5 miles east of town, with countryside views and a horse-
shoe pitch.
111 Main ( 815-777-8030; www.oneelevenmain.com ; 111 N Main St; mains $17-25; 4-9pm
Mon-Thu, 11am-10pm Fri & Sat, 11am-9pm Sun) makes meatloaf, pork-and-mashed-potatoes
and other Midwestern favorites using ingredients sourced from local farms. Dig into
mussels with champagne sauce or maybe a tender schnitzel, at cozy French-German bis-
tro Fritz and Frites ( 815-777-2004; www.fritzandfrites.com ; 317 N Main St; mains $17-22;
4-9pm Tue & Wed, from 11:30am Thu-Sun) . The VFW Hall (100 S Main St; from 4pm)
provides a sublime opportunity to sip cheap beers and watch TV alongside veterans of
long-ago wars. Don't be shy: as the sign out front says, the public is welcome.

Quad Cities

South of Galena along a pretty stretch of the Great River Road ( www.greatriverroad-
illinois.org ) is scenic Mississippi Palisades State Park ( 815-273-2731) , a popular rock-
climbing, hiking and camping area; pick up trail maps at the north entrance park office.
Further downstream, the Quad Cities ( www.visitquadcities.com ) - Moline and Rock Is-
land in Illinois, and Davenport and Bettendorf across the river in Iowa - make a surpris-
ingly good stop. Rock Island has an appealing downtown (based at 2nd Ave and 18th St),
with a couple of cafes and a lively pub and music scene. On the edge of town, Black
Hawk State Historic Site ( www.blackhawkpark.org ; 1510 46th Ave;

sunrise-10pm) is a huge

park with trails by the Rock River. Its Hauberg Indian Museum ( 309-788-9536; Watch

Tower Lodge; 9am-noon & 1-5pm Wed-Sun) outlines the sorry story of Sauk leader

Black Hawk and his people.
Out in the Mississippi River, the actual island of Rock Island once held a Civil
War-era arsenal and POW camp. It now maintains the impressive Rock Island Arsenal
Museum (

, Civil War cemetery, national cemetery and visitor

noon-4pm Tue-Sat)