Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
quite a force, attracting an important synod to Whitby, at which it was decided that the ab-
bey should follow Roman traditions as opposed to Celtic rule. Hilda also discovered and
encouraged the first Saxon poet, Caedmon. The abbey's dominating position on the head-
land did not protect it from invasion by the Danes. The second abbey fell into disrepair in
the sixteenth century under Henry VIII's dissolution of the monasteries, as had the abbey at
Shap. It suffered further damage when it was shelled during the First World War. Visitors to
the still impressive ruins can learn about Whitby's strategic importance in the area and the
early church, and about the families who have been involved with the abbey. But not for us
any such tourist detours, old Wainwright wasn't quite done with us yet. He's rarely the one
to adopt the straight route, and so instead of following the road, the Coast to Coast veers
a little to the north, so that hikers can follow the coastal path South and approach Robin
Hood's Bay from above, mirroring the beginning of the walk, when we started in the south
and made our way north for a while before heading east. I would like to be able to say that
we made a triumphal entry into the little fishing village perched precariously on the steep
slope that slips into the North Sea, but it began to drizzle as we formed a guard of honor
with our hiking poles to celebrate our back-markers, Aussies Bob and Joanne. A much-be-
draggled motley crew, we marched through the narrow streets to the sea. The grey tide had
slipped out, adding a little extra distance to the walk. At last there was sufficient water to
dip the boots. I raise two sets of hiking poles in salute, but I cannot throw my pebble, and I
smile when Sarah's dog retrieves hers from the water, wagging his tail and prancing a little
at the game.
Much as I had been impatient to finish, I cannot say this journey is over; I cannot cast
the memories, the insights, the strength I have gathered, as easily as one can cast a stone.
We have been coasting, with the Brits, the Irish, the Swiss and the Aussies, and with the
Romans and the slate and lead miners, the poets, with Henry Jenkins, and the garrison at
Richmond, and all the others who have walked this way. We had melded a bond with those
who led and those who follow us; we are changed and connected. And as we turn our backs
upon the ocean, and head back up the village road, we are resolved that there will be other
adventures, other detours from the highway, other paths to forge. It turns out that the finish
is not an ending after all but, why did we not see this earlier, another beginning.