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Blacktips resting in shipping boxes. (Photo courtesy Ray Keyes)
through slow, highly exaggerated swimming motions. If the intruder
doesn't withdraw, they attack at lightning speed.
Bob was naturally concerned that with his attention focused on look-
ing for tunicates on the reef in front of him, he wouldn't be able to keep
an eye out for gray reef sharks that might become upset by his presence.
So I went with him and, riding shotgun with my shark defense bang
stick, kept an eye out for possibly ill-tempered gray reefs. Plenty of them
came by to check us out, but they just looked and kept on going.
It was a real pleasure to have time to enjoy the incredible diving on
this pristine coral atoll. There were many memorable sights. A major
one was the giant manta rays with their twelve-foot wingspans that came
gliding by to check us out. One could only stop and stare in wonder
at the beauty of a passing school of electric-blue-and-yellow fusiliers
or the occasional glimpse of a lone majestic Napoleon wrasse.
Having spent most of my diving career in the cold, sometimes murky
waters of California, I found it a delight to dive in eighty-five-degree
water, with no need for a cumbersome wet suit and heavy weight belt,
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