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and beeping, flashing knick-knacks. ( สำเพ็ง ; Soi Wanit 1;
8am-6pm;
Tha Ratchawong,
Hua Lamphong exit 1 & taxi)
9 Church of Santa Cruz
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CHURCH
Centuries before Sukhumvit became Bangkok's international district, the Portuguese
claimed fa·ràng (Western) supremacy and built the Church of Santa Cruz in the 1700s.
The surviving church dates to 1913. Small village streets break off from the main court-
yard into the area; on Soi Kuti Jiin 3, several houses sell Portuguese-inspired cakes and
sweets. ( โบสถสังตาครูส ; Soi Kuti Jiin; admission free;
7am-noon Sat & Sun;
Tha Pak Talat (Atsa-
dang))
Understand
The King
If you see a yellow Rolls-Royce flashing by along Bangkok avenues, accompanied by a police escort, you've
probably just caught a glimpse of Thailand's longest-reigning monarch - and the longest-reigning living monarch
in the world - King Bhumibol Adulyadej.
The Man on the Throne
Also known in English as Rama IX, Bhumibol Adulyadej was born in 1927 in the USA, where his father, Prince
Mahidol, was studying medicine at Harvard. Fluent in English, French, German and Thai, Bhumibol ascended the
throne in 1946 following the death of his brother Rama VIII (King Ananda Mahidol; r 1935-46), who reigned for
just over 11 years before dying under mysterious circumstances. An ardent jazz composer and saxophonist when
he was younger, Rama IX has hosted jam sessions with the likes of jazz greats Woody Herman and Benny Good-
man. His compositions are often played on Thai radio. The king is also recognised for his extensive development
projects, particularly in rural areas of Thailand. Rama IX and Queen Sirikit have four children: Princess Ubol
Ratana (b 1951), Crown Prince Maha Vajiralongkorn (b 1952), Princess Mahachakri Sirindhorn (b 1955) and
Princess Chulabhorn (b 1957).
The Twilight of an Era
After more than 60 years in power, and having recently reached his 85th birthday, Rama IX is preparing for his
succession. For the last few years the Crown Prince has performed most of the royal ceremonies the king would
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