Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
set the scene. You'll need to wait to get a table, so use the time wisely and peruse the
menu in advance.
(30 Sinan Rd; dishes ¥20-50;
11am-2am;
S Shaanxi Rd)
6
Southern Barbarian
$$
YUNNANESE
Fine, MSG-free Yunnanese cuisine served in a laid-back (though somewhat noisy) atmo-
sphere. Unusual dishes include the stewed beef and mint casserole, 'grandmother's
mashed potatoes' and the addictive chicken wings. Reserve.
(
5157 5510; 2nd fl, Gourmet
Zone, 56 S Maoming Rd; dishes ¥25-68;
S Shaanxi Rd)
7
Xinjishi
$$
SHANGHAINESE
GOOGLE MAP
Branch of classic Shanghainese restaurant Jesse (
Click here
)
.
(
6336 4746; Bldg 9, Xintiandi
North Block; dishes ¥38-88;
S Huangpi Rd or Xintiandi)
Understand
Green Gang Gangsters
In Shanghai's climate of hedonist freedoms, political ambiguities and capitalist free-for-all, it was perhaps inevit-
able that the city should spawn China's most powerful mobsters. Ironically, in 1930s Shanghai the most binding
laws were those of the underworld, with their blood oaths, secret signals and strict code of honour. China's
modern-day Triads and Snakeheads owe much of their form to their Shanghainese predecessors.
The real godfather of the Shanghai underworld was Du Yuesheng, or 'Big-Eared' Du as he was known to any-
one brave enough to say it to his face. Born in Pudong, Du soon moved across the river and was recruited into the
Green Gang, where he worked for 'Pockmarked' Huang, a legendary gangster who doubled as a high-ranking de-
tective in the French Concession police. Du gained fame by setting up an early opium cartel with the rival Red
Gang, and rose through the ranks. By 1927 Du was the head of the Green Gang and in control of the city's prosti-
tution, drug-running, protection and labour rackets. Du's special forte was to kidnap the rich and then to negotiate
their release, taking half of the ransom money as commission. With an estimated 20,000 men at his beck and call,
Du travelled everywhere in a bullet-proof sedan, protected by armed bodyguards crouched on the running boards.
His control of the labour rackets led to contacts with warlords and politicians. In 1927 Du played a major part
in Chiang Kaishek's anti-communist massacre and later became adviser to the Kuomintang. A fervent nationalist,
his money supplied the anti-Japanese resistance movement.
