Graphics Programs Reference
In-Depth Information
Step Three:
If you know exactly which color you want
to affect, you can just grab the slider and
click-and-drag it. But if you're not sure
which colors make up the area you want
to adjust, then you can use the TAT (the
same Targeted Adjustment tool you used
back in the Tone Curve panel, but now
you're using it to adjust color, instead of
contrast). Click on the TAT (shown circled
in red here), then move your cursor over
the yellow logo in the center of the steer-
ing wheel and click-and-drag upward to
increase the color saturation. You'll notice
that it doesn't just move the Yellow slider,
but it also increases the Green Saturation
slider, as well. You probably wouldn't have
realized that there was any green in the
logo, and this is why this tool is so handy
here. In fact, I rarely use the HSL panel
without using the TAT!
Step Four:
Now click on Luminance, at the top of
the panel (this panel's sliders control the
overall lightness or darkness of the colors).
To brighten up just the tachometer, take
the TAT, move it over the tachometer, then
click-and-drag straight upward, and the
tach will start to brighten (the Luminance
for the Orange and Yellow both increased).
If you're a Photoshop user, by now you've
probably realized that this is pretty much
a version of Photoshop's Hue/Saturation
feature, with the only real differences being
that it uses two extra color sliders (Orange
and Purple), Lightroom calls “L” Luminance,
whereas Hue/Saturation in Photoshop calls
it Lightness, and Lightroom has an Aqua
slider rather than Cyan. Plus, of course,
Lightroom has the TAT (which is nice). Two
last things: Clicking the All button (at the
top of the panel) puts all three sections
in one scrolling list, and the Color panel
breaks them all into sets of three for each
color—a layout more like Photoshop's Hue/
Saturation. But, regardless of which layout
you choose, they all work the same way.
 
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