Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
He opened a Victorian hotel overlooking Kaiaka Bay and named it Haleiwa, or “House of the
Iwa,” the tropical seabird often seen here. The hotel and railroad are gone, but Haleiwa, which
was rediscovered in the late 1960s by hippies, resonates with rare rustic charm. Tofu, not taro,
is a staple in the local diet. Arts and crafts, boutiques, and burger stands line both sides of the
town. Haleiwa's busy fishing harbor is full of charter boats and captains who hunt the Kauai
Channel daily for tuna, mahimahi, and marlin. The bartenders at
Jameson's
★, 62-540 Kame-
hameha Hwy. (
&
808/637-6272
), make the best mai tais on the North Shore; they use the ori-
ginal recipe by Trader Vic Bergeron.
Once in Haleiwa, the hot and thirsty traveler should report directly to the nearest shave-ice
stand, usually
MatsumotoShaveIce
★★, 66-087 Kamehameha Hwy. (
&
808/637-4827
). For 40
years, this small, humble shop operated by the Matsumoto family has served a popular rendi-
tion of the Hawaii-style snow cone flavored with tropical tastes. The local favorites are li hing
mui (lee hing moo-ee, which is sweet, sour, and salty), or with sweet Japanese adzuki beans
hidden inside.
Just down the road are some of the fabled shrines of suring—
Waimea Beach, Banzai
Pipeline,SunsetBeach
—where some of the world's largest waves, reaching 30 feet and more,
rise between November and January. They draw professional surfers as well as reckless dare-
devils and hordes of onlookers, who jump in their cars and head north when word goes out
that “surf's up.” Don't forget your binoculars.
