Where to Eat - Honolulu, Waikiki and Oahu - page 186

3660OntheRise ★★★ PACIFIC RIM Ever since Wine Spectator gave this 200-seat restaurant
its “Award of Excellence,” it's been packed, and with good reason. Chef Russell Siu adds an
Asian or local touch to the basics: rack of lamb with macadamia nuts, filets of catfish in ponzu
(a Japanese sauce), and seared ahi salad with grilled shiitake mushrooms, a local favorite. The
ahi katsu, wrapped in nori and fried medium-rare, is a main attraction in the appetizer de-
partment. Diners rave over Chef Gilbert Crisostomo's desserts, especially the warm chocolate
cake. Tip: 3660 offers smaller portions of some entrees.
3660 Waialae Ave. & 808/737-1177. www.3660.com . Reservations suggested. Main courses $22-$59, prix-fixe menu
$41. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Tues-Sun 5:30-8:30pm.
MODERATE
Genki Sushi ★ SUSHI Take your place in line for a seat at one of the U-shaped counters.
Conveyor belts parade by with freshly made sushi, usually two pieces per color-coded plate,
priced inexpensively. The possibilities are dizzying: spicy tuna topped with scallions, ahi,
scallops with mayonnaise, a Canadian roll (same as a California roll, except with salmon), sea
urchin, flavored octopus, sweet shrimp, surf clam, corn, tuna salad, and so on. Genki starts
with a Japanese culinary tradition and takes liberties with it, so don't be a purist. By the end
of the meal, the piled-high plates are tallied up by color, and presto, your bill appears. Com-
bination platters are available for takeout.
900 Kapahulu Ave. & 808/735-7700. A la carte sushi from $1.50 for 2 pieces; takeout combination platters $26-$50.
AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Sun-Thurs 11am-9pm; Fri-Sat 11am-10pm; takeout available daily 11am-9pm.
Town ★ CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN The latest hip restaurant along Waialae's miracle
mile of “in” spots is a surprisingly delicious place to eat. (Generally the new hot spots, filled
with beautiful young diners, tend toward pretense rather than lip-smacking food.) Ignore the
metro high-tech atmosphere of highly polished concrete floors, stainless steel tables, and in-
credibly uncomfortable chairs, and ask for a table outside on the lanai (where the noise level
will be bearable). The hand-typed (who the heck still has a typewriter these days?), incredibly
creative menu changes daily, but promises “local first, organic whenever possible, with aloha
always,” and delivers. At last visit, we sampled the ahi tartar on risotto cakes and veggie frito
misto, and an Italian tempura of scallops, celery, lemon, and white beans. Entrees range from
braised lamb to crispy moi to excellent gnocchi. Desserts (in the $7 range) include the likes of
buttermilk panna cotta and chocolate banini (panini of toast, chocolate, and bananas—yum).
Lunches are along the lines of sandwiches, salads, and pastas. Breakfast (frittata of the day,
eggs, wonderful baked goods) has recently been added.
3435 Waialae Ave. (at 9th St.). & 808/735-5900. www.townkaimuki.com . Reservations required for dinner. Main courses
$5-$9.50 breakfast, $13-$20 lunch, $19-$30 dinner. AE, MC, V. Mon-Thurs 7am-2:30pm and 5:30-9:30pm; Fri-Sat
5:30-10pm.
12th Avenue Grill ★ AMERICAN This tiny (14-table) upscale neighbor-hood diner is
packed every night. If you've had your fill of Hawaii regional cuisine and long for some good
ol' American food—though not quite like mom used to make—Chef Kevin Hanney whips up
a gourmet version of macaroni and cheese (with smoked Parmesan) and a signature kim-chee