Travel Reference
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fornia on a good day. A few reasons to come here: to have dinner at Roy's, the original and
still-outstanding Hawaii regional cuisine restaurant, in Hawaii Kai; to snorkel at Hanauma
Bay or watch daredevil surfers at Sandy Beach; or just to enjoy the natural splendor of the
lovely coastline, which might include a hike to Makapuu Lighthouse.
The Windward Coast
The windward side is the opposite side of the island from Waikiki. On this coast, trade winds
blow cooling breezes over gorgeous beaches; rain squalls inspire lush, tropical vegetation; and
miles of subdivisions dot the landscape. Bed-and-breakfasts, ranging from oceanfront estates
to tiny cottages on quiet residential streets, are everywhere. Vacations here are spent enjoying
ocean activities and exploring the surrounding areas. Waikiki is just a quick 15-minute drive
away.
KAILUA The biggest little beach town in Hawaii, Kailua sits at the foot of the sheer green Koolau
Mountains, on a great bay with two of Hawaii's best beaches. The town itself is a funky low-
rise cluster of timeworn shops and homes. Kailua has become the B&B capital of Hawaii;
it's an affordable alternative to Waikiki, with rooms and vacation rentals from $60 a day
and up. With the prevailing trade winds whipping up a cooling breeze, Kailua attracts
windsurfers from around the world.
KANEOHE After you clear the trafficky maze of town, Oahu returns to its more natural state.
Helter-skelter suburbia sprawls around the edges of Kaneohe, one of the most scenic bays
in the Pacific. A handful of B&Bs dot its edge. This beautiful bay beckons you to get out on
the water; you can depart from Heeia Boat Harbor on snorkel or fishing charters and visit
Ahu o Laka, the sandbar that appears and disappears in the middle of the bay. From here,
you'll have a panoramic view of the Koolau Range.
KUALOA/LAIE The upper northeast shore is one of Oahu's most sacred places, an early Hawaiian
landing spot where kings dipped their sails, cliffs hold ancient burial sites, and ghosts
still march in the night. Sheer cliffs stab the reef-fringed seacoast, while old fishponds are
tucked along the two-lane coast road that winds past empty gold-sand beaches around
beautiful Kahana Bay. Thousands “explore” the South Pacific at the PolynesianCultural
Center, in Laie, a Mormon settlement with its own Tabernacle Choir of sweet Samoan har-
mony.
The North Shore
Here's the Hawaii of Hollywood—giant waves, surfers galore, tropical jungles, waterfalls, and
mysterious Hawaiian temples. If you're looking for a quieter vacation, closer to nature, and
filled with swimming, snorkeling, diving, surfing, or just plain hanging out on some of the
world's most beautiful beaches, the North Shore is your spot. The artsy little beach town of
Haleiwa and the surrounding shoreline seem a world away from Waikiki. The North Shore
boasts good restaurants, shopping, and cultural activities—but here they come with the quiet
of country living. Bed-and-breakfasts are the most common accommodations, but there's one
first-class hotel and some vacation rentals as well. Beforewarned: It's a long trip—nearly an
hour's drive—to Honolulu and Waikiki, and it's about twice as rainy on the North Shore as in
Honolulu.
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