Travel Reference
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ing mains - choose cold dishes from the waiter's tray and order hot ones from the menu. (
212-245 0362; Sofyalı Sokak 9, Asmalımescit; mezes 2.50-10, mains 13-25;
closed Sun;
Karaköy,
then funicular to Tünel)
18 Kafe Ara $$
CAFE
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This casual cafe is named after its owner, legendary local photographer Ara Güler. It oc-
cupies a converted garage with tables and chairs spilling out into a wide laneway opposite
the Galatasaray Lycée and serves an array of well-priced salads, sandwiches and Turkish
staples such as sigara böreği (deep-fried cigar-shaped pastries filled with cheese and
potato). No alcohol. (Tosbağ Sokak 8a, Galatasaray; sandwiches 15-20, salads 15-23, grills 19-24;
7.30am-midnight Mon-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat, to 10pm Sun;
Kabataş, then funicular to Taksim)
19 Asmalı Canım Ciğerim $
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The name means 'my soul, my liver', and this small place behind the Ali Hoca Türbesi
specialises in grilled liver served with herbs, ezme (spicy tomato sauce) and grilled veget-
ables. No alcohol, but ayran (a salty yoghurt drink) is the perfect accompaniment. (Minare
Sokak 1, Asmalımescit; 5 skewers 12;
ANATOLIAN
Karaköy, then funicular to Tünel)
20 Mikla $$$
MODERN TURKISH
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Local celebrity chef Mehmet Gürs is a master of Mod Med, and the Turkish accents on
the menu here makes his food memorable. Extraordinary views, luxe surrounds and pro-
fessional service complete the experience. Be sure to have a drink on the rooftop bar be-
fore your meal. (
212-293 5656; www.miklarestaurant.com ; Marmara Pera Hotel, Meşrutiyet Caddesi 15,
Tepebaşı; appetisers 25-38, mains 51-79;
dinner;
Karaköy, then funicular to Tünel)
21 Journey $$
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INTERNATIONAL, CAFE
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