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tray tables and wooden stools stand in stark contrast to the Western-style Fes Cafe, oppos-
ite. (Halıcılar Çarşışı Sokak, Grand Bazaar;
8.30am-7pm Mon-Sat;
Beyazıt-Kapalı Çarşı)
16 Şark Kahvesi
CAFE
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The Şark's arched ceiling betrays its former existence as part of a bazaar street; years ago
some enterprising kahveci (coffee maker) walled up several sides and turned it into a cafe.
Located on one of the bazaar's major thoroughfares, it's popular with both stallholders
and tourists. (Oriental Coffeeshop; Yağlıkçılar Caddesi 134, Grand Bazaar;
8.30am-7pm Mon-Sat;
Beyazıt-Kapalı Çarşı)
17 Vefa Bozacısı
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BOZA BAR
This famous boza bar was established in 1875 and locals still flock here to drink the vis-
cous tonic, which is made from water, sugar and fermented barley. The mucous-coloured
beverage has a reputation for building up strength and virility - it won't be to everyone's
taste, but the bar's pretty interior is worth a visit in its own right. ( www.vefa.com.tr ; cnr Vefa &
Katip Çelebi Caddesis, Molla Hüsrev; boza 2.50;
8am-midnight;
Laleli-Üniversite)
Understand
İstanbul in Print
This colourful and complex city has inspired writers throughout history, and continues to do so today. Local lu-
minaries including Orhan Pamuk and Elif Şafak set most of their novels here, and many foreign writers have used
the city as a literary setting.
Local Writers
İrfan Orga's 1950 masterpiece Portrait of a Turkish Family is among the best writing about the city ever pub-
lished, as is A Mind at Peace (1949) by Ahmet Hamdi Tanipar. Elif Şafak's The Flea Palace (2002) and The Bas-
tard of İstanbul (2006) are both acclaimed novels set in İstanbul.
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