Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
have turned around. The South
Loop—stretching from Harrison
Street's historic Printers Row south
to Cermak Road (where China-
town begins), and from Lake Shore
Drive west to the south branch of
the Chicago River—is one of the
fast-growing residential neighbor-
hoods in the city.
Pilsen
Originally home to the
nation's largest settlement of
Bohemian-Americans, Pilsen (which
derives its name from a city in
Bohemia, the Czech Republic) was
for decades the principal entry point
in Chicago for immigrants of every
ethnic background. Centered at Hal-
sted and 18th streets just southwest
of the Loop, Pilsen now contains
the second-largest Mexican-Ameri-
can community in the United States.
This vibrant and colorful neighbor-
hood, which was happily invaded by
the outdoor mural movement
launched years earlier in Mexico,
boasts a profusion of authentic
taquerias and bakeries. The neigh-
borhood's annual Day of the Dead
celebration, which begins in Septem-
ber, is an elaborate festival that runs
for 8 weeks. The artistic spirit that
permeates the community isn't con-
fined to Latin-American art. In
recent years, artists of every stripe,
drawn partly by the availability of
loft space in Pilsen, have nurtured a
small but thriving artists' colony.
Hyde Park
Hyde Park is like an
independent village within the con-
fines of Chicago, right off Lake
Michigan and roughly a 30-minute
train ride from the Loop. Fifty-sev-
enth Street is the main drag, and
the University of Chicago—with all
its attendant shops and restau-
rants—is the neighborhood's prin-
cipal tenant. The most successful
racially integrated community in
the city, Hyde Park is an oasis of
furious intellectual activity and lib-
eralism that, ironically, is hemmed
in on all sides by neighborhoods
suffering some of the highest crime
rates in Chicago. Its main attraction
is the world-famous Museum of
Science and Industry.
2 Getting Around
The best way to savor Chicago is by walking its streets. Walking isn't always
practical, however, particularly when moving between distant neighborhoods
and on harsh winter days. In those situations, Chicago's public train and bus sys-
tems are efficient modes of transportation.
BY PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION
The
Chicago Transit Authority (CTA)
operates an extensive system of trains
and buses throughout the city of Chicago. The sturdy system carries about 1.5
million passengers a day. Subways and elevated trains (known as the El) are gen-
erally safe and reliable, although it's advisable to avoid long rides through unfa-
miliar neighborhoods late at night.
Fares
for the bus, subway, and El are $1.75, with an additional 25¢ for a
transfer that allows CTA riders to make two transfers on the bus or El within 2
hours of receipt. Children under 7 ride free, and those between the ages of 7 and
11 pay 85¢ (15¢ for transfers). Seniors can also receive the reduced fare if they
have the appropriate reduced-fare permit (call
&
312/836-7000
for details on
how to obtain one, although this is probably not a realistic option for a short-
term visitor).
Adopting a system used by other urban transit agencies, the CTA uses credit-
card-size fare cards that automatically deduct the exact fare each time you take
