Where to Dine - Chicago 2005 - page 156

8 Wicker Park/Bucktown
The booming Wicker Park/Bucktown area followed closely in the race to gen-
trification on the heels of Lincoln Park and Wrigleyville. First came the artists
and musicians, who were then followed by armies of yuppies and young fami-
lies—all attracted by cheap rents and real estate. The result is a now-established
happening scene, which includes some of the city's hippest restaurants and clubs.
Get yourself to the nexus of activity at the intersection of North, Damen, and
Milwaukee avenues, and you won't have to walk more than a couple of blocks
in any direction to find a hot spot. Cab fares from downtown are reasonable, or
you can take the El's Blue Line to Damen.
EXPENSIVE
Cafe Absinthe ECLECTIC For most Chicagoans, alleys function as a
place to store garbage until the sanitation crews come along, keeping the side-
walks clear. Cafe Absinthe uses its alley as the restaurant entrance. Looks can be
deceiving because Absinthe is no dive. On the contrary, it has become one of
Chicago's hippest eateries, both because its out-of-the-way location attracts
trendy types and because of the moody atmosphere. The darkly lit interior sets a
subdued tone, with jazz playing in the background and model-types sipping Cos-
mopolitans at the bar. The menu changes daily; on a typical evening, Absinthe
will offer such appetizers as grilled-ostrich filet with confit onion, fresh figs, and
mandarin oranges, or brie cooked en croute with hazelnuts, blackberry preserves,
and spiced strawberries. Main courses include wasabi-seared tuna with oriental
vegetable roll and Pernod-glazed rack of lamb with fluffy macadamia-nut cous-
cous. The dessert menu is every bit as tempting, from the selection of flavored
crème brûlées to the chocolate-and-hazelnut mousse served in a martini glass.
1954 W. North Ave. (at Damen and Milwaukee aves.). & 773/278-4488. Reservations recommended. Main
courses $17-$27. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Sun-Thurs 5:30-10pm; Fri-Sat 5:30-11pm. Subway/El: Blue Line to
Damen.
Mas LATIN AMERICAN Urban, cozy, and dark, “nuevo Latino” Mas is
almost always packed with faithful regulars who come for the Latin cocktails and
modern takes on traditional Central and South American cuisine. With long
waits on weekends and plenty of loud conversation, Mas may not be to every-
one's taste. But if you haven't been tempted by the nuevo Latino trend yet, this
is definitely the place to try it.
The “primero” list includes spicy lime-marinated tuna tacos with papaya,
rosemary, and Dijon salsa; and a succulent ceviche of the day (such as yellowtail
snapper with smoked poblano chile or blue marlin with rum and vanilla).
Entrees worth the wait include chile-cured pork tenderloin over smoky white
beans; achiote-roasted mako shark with crawfish-lentil salsa and avocado salad;
and traditional Brazilian xinzim (shrimp and chicken stew with coconut broth
and black beans). Out-of-the-ordinary desserts include lightly fried pound cake
with fresh plum compote, roasted hazelnuts, and caramel-praline ice cream. At
the bar, try a Brazilian caipirinha (made with sugar, lime, and cachaça, a brandy
made from sugar cane), a guava batida (an alcoholic version of a fruit smoothie),
or a Peruvian Pisco sour. The margaritas are also very good. The wine list
emphasizes selections from Spain, Argentina, and Chile.
1670 W. Division St. & 773/276-8700. www.masrestaurant.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses
$17-$27. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon-Thurs 5:30-10:30pm; Fri-Sat 5:30-11pm. Subway/El: Blue Line to Damen.