Where to Dine - Chicago 2005 - page 150

a chile- and salt-dusted glass) or a bittersweet Adobopolitan (tequila, Cointreau,
and hibiscus tea).
1610 N. Wells St. & 312/266-7999. www.adobogrill.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses
$13-$20. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon-Thurs 5:30-10pm; Fri 5:30-11:30pm; Sat noon-2:30pm and 5:30-11:30pm;
Sun noon-9:30pm. Bus: 22, 36, or 156.
Bistrot Margot FRENCH/BISTRO Bistrot Margot is not only
one of the best restaurants in Old Town—it's also one of the better French
bistros in town. It can get very busy and loud, and the tables are quite close
together, but, for many, that only adds to its charm. This is true bistro dining—
very casual and never stuffy. Starters include out-of-this-world mussels in white
wine with fresh herbs, escargot in garlic butter, country-style pâté, and crab cake
in mustard sauce. Don't skip the salad course, either (in warm weather go for the
light, refreshing Belgian endive with spicy walnuts, blue cheese, and apples).
Specials are usually a best bet for the main course. But the usual suspects
(roasted chicken with garlic, lemon, herbs, and pommes frites; rack of lamb with
Dijon mustard and garlic bread crumbs; and a terrific steak frites) are proof that,
when done right, it's hard to beat classic French cuisine. On warm summer
nights, the restaurant sets about half a dozen tables on the sidewalk, which, on
this colorful stretch of Wells Street, makes for a truly memorable meal.
1437 N. Wells St. & 312/587-3660. www.bistrotmargot.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses
$14-$20. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon 11:30am-9pm; Tues-Thurs 11:30am-10pm; Fri 11:30am-11pm; Sat
10:30am-11pm; Sun 10:30am-9pm. Subway/El: Red Line to Clark/Division or Brown Line to Sedgwick.
Boka AMERICAN In a neighborhood full of Irish pubs and casual sand-
wich joints, Boka is a sophisticated, grown-up alternative. The dimly lit dining
room manages to be both romantic and dramatic, thanks to the fabric “sculp-
tures” stretched across the ceiling. The appetizer getting thumbs up from food
critics is the fresh oyster selection served with a still-bubbling sparkling wine
sauce. Entrees cover a range of meat and seafood; grilled wild salmon with a
thyme-sherry reduction is served with white beans and grilled greens, while pork
chops are topped with a rosemary-cider sauce and comes with blue-cheese
potato gratin. The extensive wine list features a number of vintage “off the
beaten path” selections. Boka makes a great dinner stop before a show at Step-
penwolf Theatre—but make a reservation, because many fellow theatergoers will
have the same idea. Aesthetically, Boka's main claim to fame is its cellphone
booth, where diners are encouraged to make calls rather than share their con-
versation with the whole dining room. Now that's an idea I hope catches on.
1729 N. Halsted St. (between North Ave. and Willow St.). & 312/337-6070. www.bokachicago.com. Reser-
vations recommended on weekends. Main courses $15-$25. AE, MC, V. Daily 5-11pm. Subway: Red Line to
North/Clybourn.
Café Ba-Ba-Reeba! SPANISH/TAPAS One of the city's first tapas restau-
rants, Café Ba-Ba-Reeba! is still going strong, thanks to its location on bustling
Halsted Street, near the Armitage Avenue shopping strip. The clientele tends to
be young and comes to the restaurant in groups, so be prepared: Loud conver-
sations and tipsy toasts over pitchers of sangria may surround you.
Café Ba-Ba-Reeba! isn't breaking any new ground with its menu, but tapas
lovers will see plenty of favorites, including patatas con alioli (garlic potato
salad), gambas a la plancha (shrimp with lemon and garlic), and queso de cabra
al horno (baked goat cheese with tomato sauce). The chicken and chorizo-
sausage brochettes, served with a garlic-cumin mayonnaise, are one of the house
specialties. There's also a good selection of paellas, as well as some full-size

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