Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
EXPENSIVE
Mon Ami Gabi
FRENCH/BISTRO This “French steakhouse” concept from
Gabino Sotelino (whose upscale Ambria is right next door) seduces with its aro-
matic atmosphere, tasty steak preparations, and one of the best tarte Tatins
(inverted apple tart) in town. Gabi's decor is like a movie set of a cozy, boisterous
bistro. There are numerous classic bistro starters and hot seafood appetizers, and the
chilled
fruits de mer
selection is impressive (if you can bear to bypass your favorites,
I suggest the coquilles Gabi, a cold dish of just barely poached and artfully dressed
sea scallops). Exquisitely simple entrees include chicken paillard (a crusty, pounded
chicken breast in lemon butter) and trout Grenobloise (perfectly pan-seared trout
in caper butter with a sprinkle of croutons). Steak frites can be had with maître
d'hotel butter, au poivre, Roquefort, or bordelaise (with caramelized onions in
mushroom-and-red-wine sauce). Numerous seafood entrees, a section of seasonal
specialties, and sides along the lines of parsnip purée and ratatouille round out the
menu. Did I mention the fantastic tarte Tatin? You can also get a chocolate soufflé
served with vanilla sauce, as well as various familiar bistro dessert offerings.
2300 N. Lincoln Park West.
&
773/348-8886.
www.monamigabi.com. Reservations recommended. Main
courses $13-$28. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon-Thurs 5:30-10pm; Fri-Sat 5-11pm; Sun 5-9pm. Bus: 151.
Monsoon
INDIAN You won't find any tandoori chicken on this
nouveau
Indian menu. Pappadams—that Indian-restaurant appetizer staple—are trans-
formed here into egg-roll-like wrappers for prawns, and corn chowder takes an
exotic turn with the addition of saffron. Cornish hen is smoked with Darjeeling
tea and served on a mix of rice, cashews, pistachios, and golden raisins, while
lobster is poached in ghee and treated to a five-spice rub. A word of warning to
those with delicate taste buds: Even some of the innocent-sounding dishes can
be quite hot, so ask before ordering. Dessert isn't usually the highlight of an
Indian meal, but the creative sweets here are worth a try (mocha spice cake with
cardamom ice cream; saffron cheesecake). Monsoon is definitely an upscale
restaurant, with an elegant look (deep red velvet drapes, upholstered banquettes)
and prices that are quite high for the area. But it offers a creative alternative to
the burgers 'n' brats found at many of the other restaurants in the neighborhood.
2813 N. Broadway (at Diversey Ave.).
&
773/665-9463.
www.monsoonchicago.com. Reservations recom-
mended. Main courses $13-$32. AE, DC, MC, V. Tues-Thurs 5-10:30pm; Fri-Sat 5-11pm; Sun 5-10pm; bar
open until 2am Fri-Sat. Subway: Brown Line to Diversey.
MODERATE
Adobo Grill
MEXICAN Although lacking the authenticity and character of
some of our finer Mexican establishments (Frontera Grill & Topolobampo,
Chilpancingo, p. 139 and 138), Adobo Grill is definitely a cut above your aver-
age neighborhood Mexican restaurant. If you don't mind noisy crowds, join the
action on the first floor. Otherwise, request the smoke-free second floor.
Adobo Grill's claim to fame is the fresh guacamole prepared tableside (you
choose the spice level, but be warned that even the “medium” will give your
tongue quite a jolt). Less spicy starters include a refreshing jicama and mango
salad, or grilled baby octopus with a spicy salsa of
guajillo
chiles and a few roasted
pumpkin seeds. Flavorful roast quail is marinated in tequila, garlic, and smoky
chipotle pepper and then skewered on spears of sugar cane. For a heartier dish,
try the casserole of slow-steamed lamb with
guajillo
adobo and pinto beans. For
dessert, the chocolate tamale is a brownie-dough delight, redolent with bitter-
sweet chocolate flavor. Before you opt for a margarita or one of the 60 sipping
tequilas, consider a refreshing Michelada (your choice of beer with lime juice in
