Where to Dine - Chicago 2005 - page 145

Pizzeria Uno PIZZA Pizzeria Uno invented Chicago-style pizza, and
many deep-dish aficionados still refuse to accept any imitations. Uno's is now a
chain of restaurants throughout the country, but this location is the original. You
may eat in the restaurant itself on the basement level or, weather permitting, on
the outdoor patio right off the sidewalk. Salads, sandwiches, and a house mine-
strone are also available, but, hey—the only reason to come here is for the pizza.
Uno was so successful that the owners opened Pizzeria Due in a lovely gray-
brick Victorian town house nearby at 619 N. Wabash Ave., at Ontario Street
( & 312/943-2400 ).
29 E. Ohio St. (at Wabash Ave.). & 312/321-1000. Reservations not accepted Fri-Sat. Pizza $7-$18. AE, DC,
DISC, MC, V. Mon-Fri 11:30am-1am; Sat 11:30am-2am; Sun 11:30am-11pm. Subway/El: Red Line to Grand.

Value

6 Lincoln Park & Old Town
Singles and upwardly mobile young families inhabit Lincoln Park, the neigh-
borhood roughly defined by North Avenue on the south, Diversey Parkway on
the north, the park on the east, and Clybourn Avenue on the west. In the south-
east corner of this area is Old Town, a neighborhood of historic town houses that
stretches out from the intersection of North Avenue and Wells Street. You'll find
a few fine-dining spots, but most restaurants here are more casual—with aver-
age prices lower than you'll find in River North or along the Magnificent Mile.
VERY EXPENSIVE
Ambria FRENCH Across the street from the Lincoln Park Zoo and
housed in the impressive former Belden-Stratford Hotel, Ambria is ensconced in
several large rooms off the old lobby. It has enjoyed an enviable 20-year run as
one of Chicago's finest restaurants, one of the places Chicagoans choose when
they want to celebrate a special occasion. The dimly lit, wood-paneled interior
is intimate, almost clublike, and eminently civilized.
The menu, masterfully orchestrated by Chef Gabino Sotelino, changes fre-
quently but always features beautifully prepared French-influenced dishes. Appe-
tizers might include lobster medallions in a caviar beurre blanc, or a pastry stuffed
with escargot and seasonal vegetables. Main courses run the gamut from roasted
rack of lamb with stuffed baby eggplant, couscous, and artichoke chips to roasted
medallions of New Zealand venison with wild-rice pancakes, caramelized rhubarb,
and root vegetables. You can order a la carte or from a selection of fixed-price
menus (including a five-course shellfish degustation and the “Ambria Classic
Menu” of tried-and-true favorites). The wine list is extensive; take advantage of the
top-notch sommelier if you need guidance.
2300 N. Lincoln Park West (at Belden Ave.). & 773/472-5959. Reservations recommended. Main courses
$25-$36; fixed-price meals $65-$75. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon-Fri 6-10pm; Sat 5-10:30pm. Bus: 151.
Charlie Trotter's ECLECTIC Foodies flock to the namesake restau-
rant of chef Charlie Trotter, Chicago's first celebrity chef. Yes, he's done TV
shows and authored a series of cookbooks (with almost impossible-to-follow
recipes), but Trotter's focus is this restaurant, a shrine to creative fine dining.
There is no a la carte menu, so this is not the place to come if you're a picky
eater. Your only choice is to decide between the vegetable ($90) or grand ($110)
degustation menu. Trotter delights in presenting diners with unfamiliar ingredi-
ents and presentations, and prides himself on using only organic or free-range
products (so you can feel good about indulging). The very long entree descrip-
tions signal Trotter's attention to detail; sample dishes from a recent menu