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quality. Pastry chef Mindy Segal is mk's not-so-secret weapon: Her sweet sea-
sonal masterpieces, from intriguing homemade ice creams to playful adaptations
of classic fruit desserts, shouldn't be missed. The One Banana, Two Banana plate
(banana brioche bread pudding, banana sherbet, and banana coffee cake topped
with butterscotch and hot fudge) is worth the calories.
868 N. Franklin St. (1 block north of Chicago Ave.). & 312/482-9179. www.mkchicago.com. Reservations
recommended. Main courses $24-$38; menu degustation $58. AE, DC, MC, V. Sun-Thurs 5:30-10pm; Fri-Sat
5:30-11pm. Subway/El: Brown Line to Chicago/Franklin.
Naha CONTEMPORARY AMERICAN Chef Carrie Nahabedian (who
used her nickname for the restaurant's name) did time at four-star hotels in Cal-
ifornia before returning to her hometown, and a West Coast influence is clear in
Naha's wine list and use of seasonal ingredients. But she adds Mediterranean fla-
vors to the mix, including dishes that reflect her Armenian heritage.
Dishes at Naha combine diverse flavors without getting fussy. The duck liver
with roasted preserved quince is a delightfully rich starter, and tartare of ahi tuna
topped with caviar comes garnished with a colorful mix of diced vegetables.
Entrees are hearty: veal rib-eye with oven-cured tomatoes and cipollini onions;
sirloin steak with a gratin of goat cheese; and hot smoked salmon with lentils,
cabbage, and caramelized onions. The dessert menu leans toward fruit; a high-
light is the warm pear cake topped with almond ice cream, served with a red
Bartlett pear sorbet and pear compote on the side (as my waiter described it,
“Naughty, but not too naughty”).
A front lounge offers a special menu of meze, Mediterranean “small dishes,”
including flatbread with tomatoes, goat cheese, and artichokes; lamb kabobs;
and feta cheese-phyllo triangles made from the chef 's mother's recipe.
500 N. Clark St. (at Illinois St.). & 312/321-6242. www.naha-chicago.com. Reservations recommended.
Main courses $10-$18 lunch, $25-$32 dinner. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon-Thurs 11:30am-2pm and
5:30-9:30pm; Fri 11:30am-2pm and 5:30-10pm; Sat 5:30-10pm. Subway/El: Red Line to Grand.
Zealous CONTEMPORARY AMERICAN One of the most stylish
contemporary restaurants in town, Zealous also has one of the most eclectic
menus. Chef Michael Taus's cooking combines American ingredients with the
subtle complexity of Chinese, Vietnamese, Korean, and Indian cuisines. Diners
order from the a la carte menu or from one of three degustation menus; recent
entrees have ranged from Asian-inspired (sesame-crusted Chilean sea bass with
red coconut-curry sauce) to heartland hearty (roasted pork rack stuffed with dried
peaches and served with carrot pierogi). Zealous is especially welcoming to non-
meat eaters; there is always a five-course vegetarian menu available, and the
kitchen will prepare vegan entrees on request. The dining room is bright and airy
(thanks to a central skylight); the purple chairs, green banquettes, and silver
accents make the space feel trendy but not intimidating. The 6,000-bottle wine
collection and glass-enclosed wine cellar show that Zealous takes its libations just
as seriously as it takes its food (450 label selections appear on the wine list).
419 W. Superior St. & 312/475-9112. www.zealousrestaurant.com. Reservations recommended. Main
courses $15-$32; menu degustation $85-$105. AE, DISC, MC, V. Tues-Fri 5:30-11pm; Sat 5-11pm. Sub-
way/El: Brown Line to Chicago.
EXPENSIVE
Bin 36 CONTEMPORARY AMERICAN In one lofty, airy space, this
River North hot spot combines wine bar, restaurant, and retail in a successful,
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