Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
the “snowbird” chicken dumplings, for example, look like tiny ducklings, with
sliced carrots for beaks and black sesame seeds for eyes. East-meets-West appe-
tizers include the venison tenderloin satay and a light salmon-and-lemon grass
salad. Familiar Thai noodle and curry dishes get a boost from top-quality ingre-
dients (the rich lamb mussaman curry is a highlight), while whole red snapper is
lightly fried, with thinly sliced tomatoes arranged on top to simulate gills and
“fins” made of carrots. The relatively high prices are Erawan's main drawback—
you may not want to pay more than $20 for a dish you can get far cheaper at a
local Thai takeout place. But if you like to be pampered and presented with visu-
ally stunning dishes, Erawan is worth a splurge.
729 N. Clark St. (at Chicago Ave.). & 312/642-6888. Reservations accepted. Main courses $18-$38. AE, DC,
DISC, MC, V. Mon-Thurs 11:30am-2:30pm and 5-10pm; Fri 11:30am-2:30pm and 5-10:30pm; Sat
5-10:30pm; Sun 5-10pm. Subway: Brown or Red line to Chicago.
Kevin ASIAN/FUSION Chef Kevin Shikami had been cooking up
fusion dishes for years in various restaurants around town; since opening his
own place in 2002, he has finally been able to let loose. The overall mood is Zen
calm (dark wood tables, chairs, and floor; recessed lights that illuminate textured
paper covers). The menu emphasizes Japanese and Thai preparations and flavors;
almost half the entrees are seafood. Shikami's signature dish is his tuna tartare,
widely acknowledged as one of the city's best versions of this now-trendy appe-
tizer (here, it's livened up with spicy wasabi and paired with a seasonal salad).
Lobster and scallops get a kick from mandarin-orange sauce, while grilled
salmon is glazed with a spicy mango sauce and served with Thai red curry. The
uneven service means that Kevin hasn't quite reached the high standards of other
restaurants in this price range, but if you crave creative takes on Asian cuisine,
Kevin comes through.
9 W. Hubbard St. (at State St.). & 312/595-0055. www.kevinrestaurant.com. Reservations accepted. Main
courses $15-$17 lunch, $23-$30 dinner. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon-Thurs 11:30am-2pm and 5:30-10pm; Fri
11:30am-2pm and 5:30-11pm; Sat 5:30-11pm. Subway: Red Line to Merchandise Mart.
mk CONTEMPORARY AMERICAN Considered by foodies to be
one of the top American restaurants in the city, mk doesn't flaunt its pedigree.
The loftlike dining room is as understated as the lowercase initials that give the
restaurant its name. Chef Michael Kornick keeps the menu focused on a fairly
straightforward mix of meat and seafood: roasted rabbit with morel mushrooms,
fava beans, and carrot puree; pan-roasted chicken with ricotta gnocchi, aspara-
gus, prosciutto di parma, and roasted tomato sauce; mustard-glazed salmon with
bok choy, shiitake mushrooms, and a ginger-soy vinaigrette. The presentations
are tasteful rather than dazzling; Kornick wants you to concentrate on the food,
and that's just what the chic, mixed-age crowd does. Service is disciplined yet
agreeable, and fine table appointments signal this restaurant's commitment to
Chicago Treats
Deep-dish pizza may be Chicago's culinary claim to fame, but the city has
also added to the national waistline in other ways. Twinkies and Wonder
Bread were invented here; Chicago businessman James L. Kraft created
the first processed cheese; and Oscar Mayer got his start as a butcher in
the Old Town neighborhood.
Fun Fact
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