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which is often meat-free. The lunch menu features mostly salads, pastas, and
sandwiches, such as brie, tomato, and pesto served on a baguette.
65 E. Adams St. (at Wabash Ave.). & 312/786-9911. www.rhapsodychicago.com. Reservations recommended.
Main courses $18-$29. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon-Thurs 11:30am-2pm and 5-9pm; Fri 11:30am-2pm and
5-10pm; Sat 5-10pm; Sun 5-9pm (closed Sun mid-June to mid-Sept). Subway/El: Brown Line to Adams.
Russian Tea Time RUSSIAN/TEA Another spot very popular with
Chicago Symphony Orchestra patrons and musicians, this is far from being the
simple tea cafe that its name implies. The menu offers classic dishes of czarist
Russia and the former Soviet republics (for Russian neophytes, all the dishes are
well described, sometimes with charming background stories). The atmosphere
is old-world and cozy, with lots of woodwork and a friendly staff. Start off a meal
with potato pancakes, blini with Russian caviar, or chilled smoked sturgeon; if
you can't decide, there are a number of mixed appetizer platters to share. My top
entree picks are the beef stroganoff; kulebiaka (meat pie with ground beef, cab-
bage, and onions); and roast pheasant served with a brandy, walnut, and pome-
granate sauce and brandied prunes. Nonmeat eaters will also feel very welcome
here; both the appetizer and entree listings include vegetarian dishes.
77 E. Adams St. (between Michigan and Wabash aves.). & 312/360-0000. www.russianteatime.com. Reser-
vations recommended. Main courses $15-$27. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Sun-Mon 11am-9pm; Tues-Thurs
11am-11pm; Fri-Sat 11am-midnight. Subway/El: Brown, Purple, Green, or Orange line to Adams, or Red Line
to Monroe/State or Jackson/State.
MODERATE
The Berghoff GERMAN/AMERICAN Having celebrated its centen-
nial in 1998, The Berghoff is a Chicago landmark and its 20-foot ceilings,
checked linoleum floor, and sepia photos of old Chicago make you feel like
you've stepped back in time. The Berghoff holds Chicago liquor license no. 1,
issued at the close of Prohibition, and it still serves its own brand of beer. This
is real old-school dining—with dark-jacketed waiters who seem almost as old as
the building.
While the menu rotates seasonally, classic German favorites are always avail-
able and deliver the most dependable results. (Once, when I asked my waiter if
he recommended a Mexican-inspired dish on the daily specials menu, he shook
his head disapprovingly, then cheered up when I said we'd take Wiener schnitzel
instead.) The Berghoff serves hundreds of orders of Wiener schnitzel every day,
plus bratwurst, sauerbraten, corned beef, and the like. Because some of us have
arteries to worry about, the third and fourth generations of family management
have added some lighter fare in the form of salads, broiled fish, and vegetarian
dishes. The Berghoff also holds a popular Oktoberfest celebration each year in
mid-September that spills from the restaurant out into the street.
17 W. Adams St. (between State and Dearborn sts.). & 312/427-3170. www.berghoff.com. Reservations
recommended. Main courses $7.95-$12 lunch, $11-$17 dinner. AE, MC, V. Mon-Thurs 11am-9pm; Fri
11am-9:30pm; Sat 11:30am-10pm. Subway/El: Red or Blue line to Jackson/State or Monroe/State.
South Water Kitchen AMERICAN Because Loop restaurants cater
to office workers and business travelers, there aren't a lot of family-friendly
options other than fast food. So while South Water Kitchen isn't breaking any
new culinary ground, it deserves a mention as one of the few places in the area
that welcomes kids—while featuring food sophisticated enough for discerning
moms and dads. The dining room evokes the spirit of an old-fashioned city
saloon, and the menu goes the retro route as well. Entrees include modern twists
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